Cauliflower comes into its own

Roasted or fried, smothered in cheese or spiced up with harissa, cauliflower is the ingredient of the year.

ROASTED WHOLE CAULIFLOWER

This stunning dish can be served as first course or as a perfect accompaniment to roast pork or chicken.

1/2 cup (1 stick) salted butter 1 head cauliflower, green stalks and outer leaves removed

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 whole garlic clove

1 sprig thyme

1 sprig rosemary

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 lemon

1. Preheat the oven to 350F.

2. Grab a medium cast-iron pan and melt half of the butter over medium-high heat. Add the cauliflower and let it caramelize all over, adjusting it as necessary so that all of its surfaces color evenly without burning. Remove the cauliflower from the pan and add the remaining butter, the cumin seeds, garlic, and herbs, spooning them evenly around the surface of the pan.

3. Add the cauliflower back to the pan and spoon the butter over the top a few times. Transfer to the oven and cook for 15 minutes, basting it with the butter every 3 to 4 minutes (or as often as you can be bothered).

4. Remove the cauliflower from the oven and give it one last butter baste. Sprinkle it with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Cut it into wedges and serve. Yield: 4 servings

Adapted from Cooking, Blokes and Artichokes by Brendan Collins, Kyle Books ($29.99)