Tra­di­tional Thanksgiving—with some twists

Texarkana Gazette - - FOOD - By Louisa Chu g car­bo­hy­drates, 74 g pro­tein, 579 mg sodium, 1 g fiber owner of Elizabeth and Kit­sune restau­rants in Chicago.

What is a trad i t iona l Thanksgiving din­ner now, nearly 400 years af­ter what his­to­ri­ans call The First Thanksgiving? We think turkey and sides, ex­cept the wild tur­keys then were noth­ing like the But­ter­balls now, or even what our grand­fa­thers may have brought home from their fac­tory jobs for our grand­moth­ers to cook.

That’s what my ma­ter­nal grand­fa­ther, the great Frank Hugh, did. But my grand­mother Yok Ping let my Un­cle Eric roast the bird. He was Amer­i­can as all get-out and was even once crazily courted to be a young Chi­nese Elvis be­fore he joined the U.S. Army. But his Thanksgiving tur­keys were rubbed with black bean and gar­lic sauce, then chopped up like Chi­na­town ducks. De­li­cious though dif­fer­ently tra­di­tional.

This year, af­ter quite frankly what’s been one of the most di­vi­sive years in our life­times, we wanted tra­di­tional Thanksgiving recipes, with a nod to in­dige­nous and im­mi­grant fla­vors.

For the turkey, I turned to our his­tory. Por­ing over a decade of recipe ar­chives, I was drawn to one of colum­nist JeanMarie Brown­son’s recipes but swapped in maple syrup for the brown sugar, then added a fin­ish of smoked salt, for a kiss of sweet­ness and fire.

Award-win­ning Chicago chef and restau­rant owner Iliana Re­gan is also a mas­ter for­ager. Her recipe for but­tered chanterelles can be found in the new “Cherry Bombe: The Cook­book” from the in­die mag­a­zine of the same name that cel­e­brates women and food ir­rev­er­ently. Re­gan may use mush­rooms from the woods around her fam­ily farm in In­di­ana, but you can sub­sti­tute what’s avail­able in stores.

Tri­bune test kitchen chef Mark Gra­ham shares his recipe for crispy In­dian-spiced Brus­sels sprouts. He thought­fully blanches what can be tough lit­tle bug­gers, be­fore roast­ing them un­til ten­der and in­tensely fla­vor­ful with fa­mil­iar fall spices. Gra­ham car­ries that warmth to this year’s cran­berry sauce, adding a whis­per of ev­er­green herb.

Plus I of­fer my own non­recipe recipe for roasted root veg­eta­bles sea­soned with a lazy vinai­grette, for fel­low plant-based feast­ers.

We give thanks for not only the har­vest, as our an­ces­tors did, but the hope to imag­ine a happy Thanksgiving 400 years in the fu­ture where our best tra­di­tions en­dure. ROAST TURKEY KISSED WITH MAPLE AND SMOKE

Prep: 45 min­utes / Brine: 4 hours or overnight / Cook: 3 hours

Makes: 12 to 14 serv­ings 1 turkey, 13 to 15 pounds 2/3 cup maple syrup 1/2 cup coarse (kosher) salt 1/2 cup bour­bon (op­tional) 1 ta­ble­spoon crushed red pep­per 1 large sweet onion, roughly chopped 1 bunch pars­ley Peanut oil Salt and black pep­per PAN SAUCE: 2 ta­ble­spoons bour­bon (op­tional) Smoked salt Cider vine­gar

1. Re­move any neck and giblets pack­ages from turkey cav­ity.

2. For brine, add 2 cups hot wa­ter, maple syrup and salt to a food-safe con­tainer large enough to hold the turkey. Stir un­til syrup and salt dis­solve. Add 2 cups cold wa­ter, 1/2 cup bour­bon and red pep­per. Care­fully place turkey in brine. Add enough cool wa­ter to cover turkey com­pletely. Re­frig­er­ate at least 4 hours or overnight. Re­move turkey from brine. Dis­card brine. Re­frig­er­ate turkey up to 2 days.

3. For broth, put giblets and neck into a deep saucepan. Add about 3 cups cold wa­ter. Sim­mer, about 2 hours. Strain into a bowl. Re­move solids for snack­ing. Re­frig­er­ate broth for up to 3 days.

4. Heat oven to 375 de­grees. Place turkey in large roast­ing pan, breast side up. Add some onion to turkey neck cav­ity, close loose skin over and tuck wings un­der back. Add re­main­ing onion and pars­ley to body cav­ity; close loose skin over.

5. Rub oil all over, then sea­son well with pep­per and salt. Care­fully pour 2 cups of broth into pan. Roast, 30 min­utes.

6. Re­duce oven tem­per­a­ture to 350 de­grees. Con­tinue roast­ing turkey, turn­ing pan as needed for even brown­ing. Af­ter about 2 hours, insert ther­mome­ter into thick­est part of thigh but not touch­ing bone. When turkey tem­per­a­ture reads 160 de­grees, in­crease oven tem­per­a­ture to 450 de­grees; roast un­til skin browns, about 10 min­utes.

7. Care­fully re­move turkey to a cut­ting board; tent loosely with foil. Let stand about 15 min­utes; tem­per­a­ture will rise about 10 more de­grees, get­ting it above the rec­om­mended safe tem­per­a­ture of 165 de­grees.

8. Mean­while set roast­ing pan with pan juices di­rectly on burn­ers. Heat to a boil while scrap­ing up browned bits at bot­tom of pan. Re­move onion and pars­ley from turkey. Care­fully blend into pan sauce with im­mer­sion blender, or chop well then add. Add re­main­ing broth only as needed. Re­duce un­til thick­ened as de­sired. Off heat, add bour­bon; sea­son with salt, pep­per and vine­gar to taste.

9. Serve turkey with pan sauce, fin­ished with freshly ground black pep­per and smoked salt to taste.

Nu­tri­tion in­for­ma­tion per serv­ing (for 14 serv­ings): 507 calo­ries, 17 g fat, 5 g sat­u­rated fat, 276 mg choles­terol, 9 CRISPY IN­DIAN-SPICED

BRUS­SELS SPROUTS Prep: 25 min­utes / Cook: 20 min­utes / Yield: 6 serv­ings

De­vel­oped by Mark Gra­ham. You can blanch the Brus­sels sprouts a day or two in ad­vance and re­frig­er­ate. Re­move them from the re­frig­er­a­tor about 20 min­utes be­fore crisp­ing them up. 1 1/2 tea­spoons salt 24 medium to large Brus­sels sprouts, trimmed, cut in half through the core 6 ta­ble­spoons olive oil 1/2 tea­spoon ground cumin 1/4 tea­spoon each, ground: cin­na­mon, co­rian­der

1/4 tea­spoon crushed red pep­per flakes 2 cloves gar­lic, minced 1/2 tea­spoon minced, fresh gin­ger 10 large mint leaves, finely chopped Ci­lantro leaves

1. Bring 2 quarts of wa­ter and 1 tea­spoon of the salt to a boil in a large pot. Add the Brus­sels sprouts; cook at a boil, stir­ring oc­ca­sion­ally, un­til they are bright green and the core is slightly ten­der, about 5 min­utes. Drain; lay out on a sheet pan in a sin­gle layer to cool. You can re­frig­er­ate the sprouts at this point, and you can do this step one or two days in ad­vance.

2. Heat olive oil over medium-high heat in a large skil­let. Stir in Brus­sels sprouts; cook, stir­ring oc­ca­sion­ally, un­til Brus­sels sprouts be­gin to deeply caramelize and crisp up on all sides, about 12 min­utes.

3. Stir in re­main­ing 1/2 tea­spoon salt, cumin, cin­na­mon, co­rian­der, crushed red pep­per flakes, gar­lic and gin­ger. Cook, stir­ring con­stantly, un­til very fra­grant, gar­lic is lightly browned and Brus­sels sprouts are coated evenly with spices, about 3 min­utes. Trans­fer to a serv­ing dish; gar­nish with mint and ci­lantro leaves.

Nu­tri­tion in­for­ma­tion per serv­ing: 155 calo­ries, 14 g fat, 2 g sat­u­rated fat, 0 mg choles­terol, 7 g car­bo­hy­drates, 2 g sugar, 3 g pro­tein, 601 mg sodium, 3 g fiber

BUT­TERED CHANTERELLES Prep: 10 min­utes / Cook: 7 min­utes / Makes: 4 serv­ings This recipe from “Cherry Bombe: The Cook­book” is by Iliana Re­gan, chef and

1 pound chanterelles (or a mix of other mush­rooms) 1 ta­ble­spoon canola oil Kosher salt 1 tea­spoon gran­u­lated sugar 2 tea­spoons red wine vine­gar 1 1/2 ta­ble­spoons un­salted but­ter Freshly ground black pep­per 1 tea­spoon fresh thyme leaves

1. Brush any dirt off the chanterelles, or quickly swish them un­der wa­ter to clean if nec­es­sary. If rinsed, let the chanterelles dry for 10 min­utes on a dish towel. Any large chanterelles should be cut length­wise into smaller pieces. Trim away any dry or un­sightly pieces.

2. Heat canola oil over medium heat in a skil­let large enough to hold the mush­rooms with­out crowd­ing them. Stir in the chanterelles and [ tea­spoon salt. Cook un­til the liq­uid re­leased by the mush­rooms has evap­o­rated and the mush­rooms are slightly browned around the edges, 5 to 7 min­utes.

3. Sprin­kle in the sugar and the vine­gar, and stir. Add the but­ter, an­other ? tea­spoon salt and some pep­per. Stir to pre­vent the but­ter from be­com­ing too hot and sep­a­rat­ing. When the but­ter has coated the mush­rooms and cooked away a bit, re­move the pan from the heat. Taste for sea­son­ing. Gar­nish with the thyme, and serve warm.

Nu­tri­tion in­for­ma­tion per serv­ing: 99 calo­ries, 8 g fat, 3 g sat­u­rated fat, 11 mg choles­terol, 5 g car­bo­hy­drates, 3 g sugar, 4 g pro­tein, 126 mg sodium, 1 g fiber


VINAI­GRETTE Prep: 25 min­utes / Cook: 45 min­utes / Makes: 12 serv­ings

2 pounds car­rots, mul­ti­col­ored if avail­able (with greens re­served if pos­si­ble) peeled, sliced length­wise

2 pounds parsnips, kohlrabi, or both, peeled, sliced length­wise 2 pounds small pota­toes, skin on Peanut oil Kosher salt Black pep­per Cider vine­gar Whole grain Di­jon mus­tard Flat leaf pars­ley, stems chopped, leaves torn for serv­ing

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An al­most tra­di­tional Thanksgiving turkey.

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