Food: Warm meals for cold days start from the roots up,
Learn how to use root vegetables
If you’ve been to a farmers’ market lately, then the reality of seasonal cooking in the middle of winter has plainly revealed itself to you. Tis the season for root vegetables, and not a whole lot else.
But there is beauty to cooking with the season, not just because it feels in sync with the planet, but also because it compels you to make the most of what is available, whether those ingredients are familiar … or not so much.
Root vegetables are pretty much what they sound like: vegetables that grow under the earth and must be dug up to be harvested. In cold weather, from late fall to early spring in temperate climates, root vegetables are pretty much all that’s seasonally available, other than some late-summer crops that are hardy enough to store.
Since root vegetables grow underground, they absorb a lot of nutrients from the soil, and so are nutritional powerhouses, usually also high in starch.
Root vegetables include potatoes, yams and Jerusalem artichokes (all of which are also tubers), as well as beets, parsnips, turnips, rutabagas, carrots, yuca, kohlrabi, the onion family, garlic, celery root (or celeriac), turmeric, jicama, radishes (including daikon and horseradish) and ginger.
Some root vegetables get sweeter once the first frost hits. The cold causes the roots to work hard to prevent the plants from freezing, which causes the natural starches to convert to sugar. Carrots, turnips, rutabagas and beets are good examples.
So as we head into the belly of winter, it’s the perfect time to explore the world of root vegetables. As Robert Schueller, head of marketing at Melissa’s Produce, a specialty produce company based in California, puts it, hardy root vegetables are ideal for “comfy foods; warm meals during the cooler time.”
Schueller says that in recent years, specific vari
etals of root vegetables are having a moment. In the world of potatoes, for instance, baby potatoes are especially popular, including Dutch yellow, ruby gold, red, mixed fingerlings and gemstone.
He calls parsnips “the new carrot.” Parsnips are related to both carrots and parsley, and look much like a large, pale carrot with a squattier base. The flavor, when cooked, is like a sweeter carrot, and parsnips can be used in pretty much any recipe that calls for carrots, when you want a heightened level of sweetness. They are common in traditional Jewish chicken noodle soup, and can be mashed with potatoes or on their own, as well as roasted.
Kohlrabi has also become trendy, Schueller says. It looks a bit like a UFO with a bunch of stems sticking out willy nilly, in shades of pale green to purplish, with a pale interior. Kohlrabi can be eaten cooked or raw; raw, it’s flavor and texture are reminiscent of peeled broccoli stems, with a bit of peppery radish thrown in.
Radishes are popular not just for their spicy flavor but for the visual pop they give to salads and other dishes. The watermelon radish continues to trend, Schueller says, for its dramatic look: green on the outside, hot pink on the inside.
And multi-colored carrots are gaining traction because of how beautiful they look on a plate, in hues of purple, red, orange and yellows often combined in a bunch. They can be used just as regular orange carrots are; try them cut lengthwise and simply roasted with olive oil and salt, perhaps served with a condiment or dressing like tapenade or pesto vinaigrette.
Celery root, horseradish, sweet potatoes and shallots are other root vegetables Scheuller sees gaining in popularity because of their use by restaurant chefs.
Storage
Different root vegetables have slightly different preferences, but in general, store them in a cool, dark place with ventilation.
Carrots, celeriac, parsnips, turnips and radishes do well in the fridge, preferably in the crisper drawer.
Store onions separately from other root vegetables, as they emit gases that will accelerate the spoiling of other vegetables, especially potatoes.
Alan Spaulding, who sells vegetables at the Union Square Farmers’ Market in New York City, says he keeps most of his root vegetables in the fridge. If he runs out of space, he stores them in the coolest, darkest place in his apartment.
Remove any fresh greens from the tops of root vegetables before storing them. Wrap the greens in a damp paper towel and store in the fridge; use them as you would use any cooking greens, like kale or spinach.
Spaulding offers this tip for reviving carrots that have softened: Place them in a bowl of cold water in the fridge overnight, “and they will firm right up.”
Cooking
The best and most common methods for cooking root vegetables are steaming, sauteing, baking, roasting, braising and grilling.
Most root vegetables need to have their tough outer skin removed before cooking, especially because they sometimes have a waxy coating added to slow down spoilage. Use a vegetable peeler or a sharp paring knife. Some vegetables, such as carrots and Jerusalem artichokes, may just need a good scrub to remove dirt and any unwanted bits and bobs from the skin.
Most root vegetables are best diced, sliced or cubed before cooking, to speed things up and, in the case of roasting, to get those nice caramelized surfaces.
Root vegetables also can be added to soups, stews and casseroles. For casseroles, you might want to cook them at least partially first since they may take a little longer to become tender than the other ingredients.
Root vegetables are inexpensive, nutritious, readily available and flavorful. So while we await the season of asparagus and strawberries, dig deep and make them part of your diet.
Spicy Roasted Root Vegetable Soup with Parmesan Croutons
Roasted Vegetables + broth = roasted vegetable soup. I love this kind of math.
Servings: 4
FOR THE ROOT VEGETABLES
2 cups 1-inch cubed butternut squash
1 cup very thickly sliced carrots
1 cup 1-inch cubed rutabaga
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon Kosher or coarse salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE CHIPOTLE-SCALLION GLAZE AND SOUP
¼ cup chopped scallions
2 teaspoons pureed chipotles in adobo
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 to 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth or stock
2 cups Parmesan Croutons, see below
¼ cup heavy cream, optional
Preheat the oven to 400°F. On a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment or aluminum foil and sprayed with nonstick spray, toss the butternut squash, carrots, and rutabaga with the 2 tablespoons olive oil and salt and pepper.
Roast the vegetables in the oven for 20 minutes. While the vegetables begin roasting, make the glaze.
In a food processor or blender, combine the scallions, pureed chipotles in adobo, honey and 2 tablespoons olive oil. After the vegetables have been in the oven for 30 minutes, remove them from the oven, and reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. Spoon the glaze mixture over the vegetables, toss to combine well, and return the baking sheet to the oven. Roast for another 20 to 30 minutes, until the vegetables are very tender and nicely caramelized.
You can either transfer the vegetables to a food processor or a blender with 1 cup of the broth and puree, then transfer to a pot; or, use an immersion blender and puree the vegetables with 1 cup of the broth right in a pot. Either way, combine the pureed vegetables with the remaining 2 cups broth in the pot, and heat until everything is hot and smooth. Stir in the cream if using.
Serve in bowls with the croutons.
Parmesan Croutons
A few of these sprinkled in the humblest soup makes it kind of spectacular.
Prep Time: 10 mins / Cook Time: 10 mins / Total Time: 20 mins
8 Servings
4 cups cubed good white bread
3 tablespoons good extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan
½ teaspoon minced fresh garlic Kosher or coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Spray a rimmed baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray. In a large bowl toss the bread cubes with the olive oil, Parmesan, garlic, and salt and pepper.
Spread the croutons on the baking sheet, leaving some space between them. Bake for about 8 to 10 minutes, until the outside in lightly browned and crisp. The middle should still be a bit soft. Remove them from the pan and cool.
Roasted Winter Vegetables with Sriracha Honey Glaze
A bit of heat perks up these earthy vegetables in such a great way (and livens up those rich holiday meals, too).
Prep Time: 20 mins/ Cook time: 40 mins, Total Time 1 hr
Servings: 6
FOR THE ROASTED VEGETABLES
½ pound Brussels sprouts trimmed and halved
1 large sweet potato, about
1/2 pound, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
½ pound baby potatoes, scrubbed and halved
2 cups 1-inch cubes butternut squash
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
FOR THE SRIRACHA HONEY GLAZE
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon butter
2 teaspoons Sriracha sauce 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place all of the vegetables on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle over the olive oil, sprinkle over the thyme and use your hands to toss so that the vegetables get evenly coated (you can use a spoon, but hands are faster and more effective). Spread the vegetables out on the baking sheet so they are in a single layer. Season with salt and pepper.
Roast for about 40 minutes, until the vegetables are lightly browned in spots and tender.
Remove the pan from the oven. Place the honey, butter, and Sriracha sauce in a small container and microwave for about 20 seconds until hot (you can also do this in a small sauce pan). Stir in the lemon juice. Pour the glaze over the vegetables and use a spoon to toss until they are well coated. Transfer to a serving bowl of platter and serve hot.
Mediterranean Pork Tenderloin with Roasted Vegetables
Yet another moment where a pork loin, or a pair of pork loins in this case, make dinnertime just so very easy.
Prep Time: 20 mins / Cook Time: 40 mins / Total Time: 1 hr
Servings: 10
2 1½-pound pork tenderloins,
halved crosswise
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon granulated or powdered garlic
1 teaspoon coarse or kosher salt, plus more for seasoning the vegetables
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning the vegetables
10 thyme sprigs
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large red or yellow onion, peeled and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks
1 large fennel bulb, trimmed and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks
10 small white or red potatoes, halved or cut into quarters, whatever gets you to 1-inch or so pieces
2 jalapeno peppers, halved lengthwise, seeded, and sliced
Preheat the oven to 425°F.
In a small bowl, mix together the coriander, thyme, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Rub the mixture over the pork loins. Heat a large cast heavy skillet over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil, then add the pork loins and sear on all sides until lightly browned, about 6 minutes in all.
Meanwhile, on a rimmed baking sheet, gently toss the onions, fennel, potatoes and jalapenos with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Tuck the thyme leaves amongst the vegetables.
Nestle the four pork loins pieces amidst the vegetables.
Roast for 30 minutes, until the pork reaches an internal temperature of 140°F. Remove the pork loins and let them sit on a cutting board, lightly tented with foil, spread out the vegetables evenly on the baking sheet, and roast them for another 10 minutes or so, until they are golden brown and tender.
Slice the pork loin and serve the with roasted vegetables.