The lowdown on lab-grown meat products

Cultivated chicken isn’t poultry with a college degree. It’s another name for lab-grown animal protein made from chicken cells (tissue, tendons, even feathers). These “essence of chicken” cells are put into what is called a bioreactor and made to multiply millions and billions of times using amino acids and other nutrients. Then, additional substances, such as protein growth factors, are added to get the cells to assume characteristics of muscle, fat or connective tissue cells. The final product can then be shaped into pieces of chicken for use in many dishes.

Last November and March, the Food and Drug Administration OK’D the production and sale of two of these chicken products in the U.S. But why would someone want to do that to a chicken?

Well, it lets folks eat animal protein without having to kill an animal — and once the manufacturing process gets ramped up to scale, it will be much less harmful to the environment than farm-raising animals.

But, is it healthier for you? Maybe not yet. While skinless chicken is basically a healthy source of proteins, it also contains saturated fats — and so does lab-grown chicken. One day, the bioengineered chicken might be ultra-processed to alter its fat content and boost the content of positive nutrients, that doesn’t seem to have happened yet. Plus, the product hasn’t been studied for long-term effects on health.

So, for now, opt for fresh, unprocessed fruits and vegetables, along with wild salmon and other DHA omega-3-rich fish. Those foods have many nutrients that work together to build enduring health.