Donovan’s ‘steaks’ reputation on quality

This handsome Phoenix steak house practically gleams with mahogany. And the veteran staff is just as polished.

But what really sets Donovan’s Steak & Chop House apart is the beef: wet-aged, corn-fed, primegrade Midwestern beef. All you folks who swear your choice-grade, backyard-grilled steaks can match these are reality-challenged. (Less heavily marbled choice beef is one grade beneath prime, and it’s generally what’s available at most butchers and supermarkets.)

Even if you could find beef like this retail — prime-grade beef accounts for less than 2 percent of the nation’s supply — it can wholesale for more than $20 a pound. Are you

going to age it? Are you going to sear-grill it at 1,600 degrees? Do you have the expertise to take it off the flames at precisely the right moment?

Donovan’s offers a variety of cuts, like New York strip, bone-in New York, rib eye and porterhouse. But the most striking is the filet mignon.

Why? Prime-grade filet is so tender you can practically cut it with a glance. And the taste is almost otherworldly luxurious.

While Donovan’s is no bargain, it differs from most other high-end steak houses by serving steaks with sides of potato and vegetables, not making you order them a la carte. But if you do want a side splurge, consider the creamed spinach or fat, crunchy onion rings.

Maybe start off with a jumbo Mexican white shrimp cocktail or a light asparagus salad. Finish up with cheesecake or key lime pie.

Details: Donovan’s Steak & Chop House, 3101 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix. 602-955-3666, dono vanssteakhouse.com.

JOHN SAMORA/ THE REPUBLIC Cajun-seared Australian lamb chops at Donovan's in Phoenix.

PHOTOS BY JOHN SAMORA/ THE REPUBLIC The 24-ounce prime bone-in rib chop is served with a baked potato and vegetables at Donovan’s Steak & Chop House. Unlike at many upscale steak houses, the sides are included rather than sold as a-la-carte items.