Road trip in southeast Mexico serves up variety
CANCUN, Mexico - The police didn’t ask for bribes. Roads were safe and fast. And food was particular, yet delicious.
A road trip across southeast Mexico offered the perfect antidote to winter: sun, beaches, yummy food, great drinks and amazing sights, from a colonial old town to ancient Mayan structures. Best of all, the longest stretch of driving was just five hours from Playa del Carmen on the Caribbean to Campeche on Mexico’s Gulf Coast.
The roughly 1,000-mile loop also traversed three remarkably different states. Quintana Roo, home to resort-laden Cancun and Playa del Carmen, has more of an American feel than most places in Mexico. Campeche’s laid-back and colorful atmosphere is a nice contrast to Yucatan’s earthy cuisine and cultural significance.
Car rental rates are low (though locally obtained insurance, which is essential, will up the cost). Major highways in the region are split into freeways and toll roads, cuotas. The tolls are relatively inexpensive, and the cuotas are often empty. At times you can travel almost alone for miles. With $250 round-trip flights from the U.S. and the Mexican peso worth half what it was five years ago against the dollar, there’s no better time to visit.
History and iguanas
The trip started at Petit Lafitte, a small locally owned resort situated just far enough outside of Playa del Carmen to avoid its boozy vibe. The resort has drawn a faithful clientele of Americans for decades. Returning guests greet staff with hugs, and everyone is on a first-name basis.
After a week of lazy beach days and ceviche feasts, the road beckoned. First stop, Campeche’s capital city, also called Campeche, which has a small-town feel and a colorful grid of streets. The old town, which dates to the mid-17th century, is surrounded by a hexagonal wall with seven intact bulwarks, each unique in design and significance. Right outside the Puerta del Mar bulwark is a long, beautiful seaside walkway where joggers, strollers and tourists congregate.
An hour from Campeche lies the pristine Mayan site of Edzna, which dates to the seventh century B.C. Manicured lawns separate the Mayan structures, the most impressive of which is the 120foot Edificio de los Cincos Pisos (which means building of five floors). Kids will love running around spotting iguanas.
Driving from Campeche to Yucatan’s capital, Merida, consider a stop at the beautiful Hacienda Santa Rosa, a luxury Starwood property where rooms start at $300 or so a night. The restaurant serves delicious Yucatan fare at reasonable prices in a serene atmosphere. The spa was once a small church.
Merida, flamingos and Uxmal
Merida is everything Campeche isn’t. It’s big, busy, noisy and dusty. But this cultural hub has many interesting sights to lure tourists and, increasingly, American and Canadian retirees. The town’s cathedral is an austere and intimidating structure whose once-ornate decorations were stripped away by secular Mexicans during the revolution. Churches dot the town’s historic center. Caleche (horse-drawn carriage) rides