Execution inconsistencies

Like the campanelle, a little gem Caesar ($11) topped with grated bottarga and tender, almost creamy eggs brings a little interest to a well-traveled dish. Crisp, breaded ricotta fritters ($10) over sweet peperonata aren’t as sharp or as witty, but they’re a curiosity, playing almost like repatriated fried cheese sticks, as if fed through an Italian to English dictionary and then back again.

Fabbri’s pizzas walk a similar line, not as straight-laced as they are at the strictly Neapolitan Pomo, but oiled and cooked to a sturdy crisp — Italian flavor meets American texture. Though each of them satisfies, the seafood pizza ($17) is a particular delight, buried in tender mussels, clams and shrimp with the tart pop of tiny tomatoes.

Even better, perhaps, is Fabbri’s focaccia di recco ($16), but those who cut their teeth on Peter DeRuvo’s almost pastry-like take at Davanti Enoteca and Evo will need to reset their expectations. Fabbri’s is a traditional version, two light, paper-thin layers of crisp dough separated by a bit of melted stracchino cheese. It crackles and melts and disappears in a blink.

Sadly, the bounty of the bread cart isn’t as benevolent. An assortment of delectable dips and spreads can’t save bread that’s