Mora has charm

ribeye ($39), carefully composed, had no trace of the salt that could have made it a star. An otherwise delightful lamb loin ($32) and crusted pork chop ($26) suffered the same fate. And lest the vegetables feel left out, a helping of peas and guanciale ($7) went similarly unseasoned.

Stellar favorites, solid desserts

salty caramel-laced pudding is probably the most striking. The classically inclined may prefer to sample an amaro or sip an espresso, though that may feel more correct late at night when the crowd has dispersed and the dining room’s bluster has faded. Mora, like her creators, sports a largerthan-life persona. Beneath, there’s both good and bad, more of the former than the latter. But she has moxie and she knows her charms.

Mora doesn’t always show you her best. But it sure is tough not to like her. Interact with him on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.