The Arizona Republic

Want to see wildlife? Try South Fork Trail

- Mare Czinar Read more of Mare arizonahik­ing.blogspot.com.

At the point on the South Fork Trail where the route crosses a creek and begins its grueling climb, I was jolted to a stop by screams that sounded like an injured dog.

In a flash, a herd of elk bolted across the trail just yards ahead of me. Five females in tandem, then a lone male.

They scrambled up a knoll following the cries of a distressed calf. The adults circled the young one who continued to wail from its high perch. Two more elk burst from the creek, stopping briefly to stare me down before they charged up to meet the herd, round up the calf and bolt into the backcountr­y. They gave me a thrill and I reciprocat­ed with exactly what they needed — their space.

Encounters like this are common on Mountains trails of northeaste­rn Arizona.

Before venturing out into the forests, hikers should be aware of common-sense rules for respecting wildlife. The basic concept is to keep wildlife wild by not approachin­g, harassing, “helping” or feeding them.

The Arizona Game & Fish website is a good resource for learning about responsibl­e wildlife viewing. Simple habits like observing from a distance, sticking to trails, keeping food secured, avoiding nest and den areas and knowing what to do (and not do) should you encounter a wild animal can protect both you and the animals. the White

Wildlife abounds along South Fork Trail

The South Fork Trail near Eagar, with its proximity to water and varied habitats, is a wildlife magnet. The challengin­g route can be done as an out-and-back or car-shuttle hike.

Most people begin at the South Fork day-use area. Shaded by tall pines, firs and spruce trees, the first mile of the trail escaped the wrath of the 2011 Wallow Fire that burned more than a half million acres of the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests.

This Eden-like stretch follows the South Fork of the Little Colorado River. The waterway is cluttered with willows, alders, red-osier dogwood, skunk bush, poison ivy (leaves of three; let it be) and wild roses. Where the water comes closest to the trail, be on the lookout for stealthy great blue herons and ingeniousl­y constructe­d beaver dams. As the trail moves southeast, gradually gaining elevation, it creeps up on the scar of the fire. A charred tree trunk here and a pile of burned logs there precede the kick-in-the-gut moment. Just over a mile in, Eden meets Hell.

Fire-scarred and physically challengin­g

Oddly prefaced by a gateway of willows, the next 5 miles of flame-plundered terrain are physically challengin­g and difficult to process emotionall­y. Those who remember what the trail looked like before the fire will find this segment heartbreak­ing.

Running through the middle of the canyon-bound wasteland, a slender trickle of water clunks and chugs beneath a resurgent fringe of aspen saplings and spotty stands of survivor pines. From this point on, you’ll need to hop over deadfall and stay alert for other hazards. Three miles in, the trail crosses the river and begins a 1,500-foot ascent to the top of a bench where views of the Springervi­lle volcanic field roll out to the New Mexico border.

The open space surroundin­g the lake is prime habitat for pronghorn. One of the fastest land mammals, the elegant, horned beasts can run as fast as 60 mph. It’s worth sitting quietly at the edge of the lake to catch a glimpse of them sprinting over open prairies, leaving clouds of rattled birds in their wake.

The end: Point of the Mountain Vista

The trail ends at the northwest edge of the lake. A rough, mile-long dirt road continues to State Route 261 and the Point of the Mountain Vista rest area. If you parked a shuttle vehicle there, just keep walking, otherwise, return the way you came.

On a recent visit, I was startled by a family of bighorn sheep lounging on a picnic ramada at the rest area. They seemed unconcerne­d about my presence as they lazed in the shade at the edge of the scenic overlook.

Whether the shaggy band wandered there by chance or because they had learned to associate picnic tables with food handouts, I gave them what they needed most — telephoto lens distance, a clear escape route and not a smidge of food.

South Fork Trail

Length: Rating: Elevation: Getting there:

14 miles round trip. Moderate to strenuous. 7,540-9,060 feet. To reach the

South Fork trailhead

from the Hon-Dah Casino near Pinetop-Lakeside, go 32.8 miles east on State Route 260 to County Road 4124 on the right near mile marker 390. Go 2.6 miles south on CR 4124, cross a bridge and turn right into the trailhead parking area. Roads are paved and sedanfrien­dly gravel.

To reach the from the CR 4124 turnoff, continue 2.3 miles east on SR 260 to SR 261, past mile marker 393. Turn right and go 7.1 miles to the vista point on the left just past mile marker 405. Hike 200 feet back up SR 261 and follow FR 70B/FR 8070B (unmarked at this writing) around the lake to the trail. Note: SR 261 is paved but the forest roads are rough, unmaintain­ed dirt. You could drive the mile to the trail but four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommende­d.

www.fs.usda.gov/asnf. www.azgfd.com/Wildlife.

Details: Point of the Mountain Vista rest area Czinar's hikes at

 ?? MARE CZINAR/SPECIAL FOR THE REPUBLIC ?? An elk dashes across the South Fork Trail.
MARE CZINAR/SPECIAL FOR THE REPUBLIC An elk dashes across the South Fork Trail.
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