The Arizona Republic

Hiking flower-filled Pumphouse Wash

- Mare Czinar

Pumphouse Wash is a tributary gorge of Oak Creek Canyon that runs between Sedona and Flagstaff, roughly parallelin­g State Route 89A.

Its rugged lower channels, which can be accessed from SR 89A just south of the switchback­s 12 miles north of Sedona, are popular destinatio­ns for backcountr­y hiking and technical canyoneeri­ng.

From the looks of this tangled corridor’s boulder-choked base, vertical walls, slots and pools of dubious depths, it’s difficult to imagine that its headwaters are 600 feet uphill in unassuming meadows around the tiny community of Kachina Village.

An easy-to-reach hike

This mountain hamlet, 9 miles south of Flagstaff off Interstate 17, is an idyllic residentia­l area of log cabins, A-frame summer homes and a hub of nature

trails in the Pumphouse Wash County Natural Area.

Less than a mile from the freeway, Raymond Park and Pumphouse Nature Trail offer short, effortless walks with observatio­n decks overlookin­g acres of wet meadows that help with natural flood control and groundwate­r recharge while providing rich wildlife habitat.

Just steps off the pavement, these two easy-access sites provide excellent opportunit­ies to view elk, foxes, waterfowl and deer.

For a longer hike, farther away from the asphalt and parking lots, the Pumphouse Wash Trail dives deeper into the woods, following damp swales that drain into Oak Creek and the Verde River.

This venture into the softer side of the wash doesn’t challenge hikers with harsh terrain navigation, rock scrambling or water obstacles. Instead, the smooth trail that traces vivid strips of sensitive wetlands is all about low-impact travel.

A delicate ecological area

The last thing delicate riparian plants and aquatic species need is human boots and loose dogs trampling their precious environmen­ts. The Coconino County Parks and Recreation Department, which oversees the site, advises visitors to “hike on the brown, stay out of the green.”

Sticking to designated trails is always a good idea, but staying out of the weeds is especially important to help protect the health of rare watershed areas like this one.

From the roomy trailhead, the route departs in two directions. The 0.3-mile north segment follows a closed road above a scenic marsh area, but it’s the 1.4mile south leg that leads to the best parts.

Just beyond the rustic fence entry, a sunny field flanked with limestone cliffs glows with summer wildflower­s.

Showy sunflowers, blue flax and fleabane bloom among tall grasses and fruit-laden wild rose and currant shrubs.

The end of the trail

The trail stays on the pine-shaded high banks of wide greenway as it twists past scoured embankment­s and spongy cienegas with water-loving patches of New Mexican checker-mallow, shrubby cinquefoil and moth mullein. At about the 1-mile point, the corridor begins to narrow and thickets of willows and oaks gradually close in on the path.

The route ends where the meadows morph into a jumbled, overgrown watercours­e where Woody Wash comes in from the northwest. Underbrush, log jams and thorny brambles preclude further exploratio­n.

If you need further incentive to hike on the brown and return the way you came; most of the green stuff ahead is poison ivy.

Hiking Pumphouse Wash natural area

Length: 3.4 miles round trip. Rating: Easy.

Elevation: 6,670-6,600 feet.

Getting there: From Interstate 17 just south of Flagstaff, take Exit 333 for Kachina Village. At the bottom of the off ramp, turn left onto Kachina Boulevard and go 0.1 mile to Kachina Trail. Turn right, go 0.3 mile, turn left onto Ancient Trail and continue 0.9 mile to the trailhead on the left, across from Oraibi Ovi. Dogs must be on leash.

Details: www.coconino.az.gov/277/ Parks-Natural-Areas. See more of Mare Czinar’s hikes at arizonahik­ing.blogspot.com.

 ?? MARE CZINAR/SPECIAL FOR THE REPUBLIC ?? The trail narrows as it moves south.
MARE CZINAR/SPECIAL FOR THE REPUBLIC The trail narrows as it moves south.
 ?? PHOTOS BY MARE CZINAR/SPECIAL FOR THE REPUBLIC ?? Four o'clock flowers are plentiful in summer.
PHOTOS BY MARE CZINAR/SPECIAL FOR THE REPUBLIC Four o'clock flowers are plentiful in summer.
 ??  ?? Limestone cliffs seen from the north leg of the trail.
Limestone cliffs seen from the north leg of the trail.

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