Resort restaurants showcase modern cuisine
Gentle winters, picturesque vistas and dazzling sunsets have long made Phoenix a destination for those seeking a temporary escape. But while the term “hotel food” is derisively used to describe the kind of unimaginative fare often found at resort restaurants, Arizona has a history of culinary creativity emerging from its vacation retreats, both large and small.
As we move into an era when refined dining is struggling to survive, the resources available to resort restaurants may become increasingly important to the development of the culinary scene. These 10 restaurants may be inside hotels, but they most certainly are not serving hotel food.
Bourbon Steak
Though an import courtesy of famed Bay Area chef Michael Mina, Bourbon Steak has given a platform to exceptional Arizona chefs at one of the Valley’s best steakhouses. Now under the direction of chef Sara Garrant, the menu continues to sparkle with refined takes on classic salads and seafood dishes, and a list of exceptional steaks that range from luxe to ultra luxe.
Details: Fairmont Scottsdale Princess, 7575 E. Princess Drive. 480585-2694, scottsdaleprincess.com/sip-savor.
Deseo
“Nuevo Latino” hits an impressive level of refinement at Deseo, where flavors from Peru to Brazil to Cuba mingle together in a menu that sings when it’s on. In a town where Latin influences mostly come courtesy of Mexico, it’s satisfying and exciting to watch a broader segment of Latin America take the spotlight.
Details: The Westin Kierland Resort and Spa, 6902 E. Greenway Parkway, Phoenix. 480-624-1202, kierlandresort.com.
Elements
Nestled into the slopes of Camelback Mountain, sporting a slick vibe and stunning views, Elements is the home of the Valley’s most widely recognized culinary figure, celebrity chef Beau MacMillan. But before he took up residence on Food Network, MacMillan and Chuck Wiley established Elements as a premier upscale restaurant that continues to send out vibrant, colorful, Asian-flecked dishes to this day.
Details: Sanctuary Camelback Mountain and Spa, 5700 E. McDonald Drive, Paradise 855-245-2051, sanctuaryoncamelback.com/dining/elements.
Hearth ‘61
Resort Valley.
The culinary trio of Charles Wiley, Christopher Brugman and Alfred Muro have come together to infuse a swank but comfortable ethos into the fare at Mountain Shadows Resort. With a menu built around a large dual-fuel oven, eye-popping plates can occasionally be a touch tame, but some mighty fine dishes are the result when this trio cuts loose.
Details: Mountain Shadows Resort, 5445 E. Lincoln Drive, Paradise Valley. 480-624-5400, mountainshadows.com/dining/hearth.
J&G Steakhouse
Newly reopened after a summer-long refresh, J&G Steakhouse is one of the standard bearers for the wave of contemporary celebrity steakhouses that has defined an era of resort dining in Arizona. That it’s still going strong is testament to our appetite for premium beef and the firm stewardship of chef Jacques Qualin. His talents would be wasted on an ordinary steakhouse, but perfectly complement Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s creative, French-forward spin.
Details: The Phoenician, 6000 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix. 480-214-8000, jgsteakhousescottsdale.com.
Kai
Arguably the last of the true fine-dining restaurants in the Valley, Kai has a special connection to Arizona’s roots. Having embraced indigenous ingredients before it was a trend, Kai offers an elegant dining experience that could not be duplicated elsewhere. But beyond unique, the restaurant also happens to be breathtaking under Ryan Swanson, the latest in a line of talented chefs to carry on the legacy.
Details: Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort and Spa, 5594 W. Wild Horse Pass Blvd., Gila River Reservation. 602-225-0100, wildhorsepassresort.com.
Lon’s at The Hermosa
Even setting aside Lon Megargee’s iconic status in Arizona folklore, Lon’s is a local institution with a pull so magnetic that even its executive chef couldn’t stay away. Jeremy Pacheco tried to relocate to Las Vegas, but soon found himself coming back home to the Hermosa. His hearty yet artistic Southwestflecked dishes have come to define the restaurant and capture the region’s historical flavor.
Details: Hermosa Inn, 5532 N. Palo Cristi Road, Paradise Valley. 602-9557878, hermosainn.com.
Talavera
Samantha Sans carries the torch at Talavera, weaving a little bit of Mexico (she is a Nogales native), a dose of the Southwest and a lot of Spanish flavor into crisply executed dishes. Sure, there are steaks, and they’re excellent. but you’d do well to explore a deep menu built on stellar ingredients.
Details: Four Seasons Resort Scottsdale at Troon North, 10600 E. Crescent Moon Drive. 480-513-5086, talaverarestaurant.com.
Weft & Warp Art Bar + Kitchen
Adam Sheff has departed, but Weft & Warp continues to excel under chef Jason Thompson. His creative fare is in keeping with the Andaz Scottsdale’s artistic theme: vibrant, colorful, expressive and marching to its own beat. Where so many resort restaurants strive for luxury and opulence, it’s nice to encounter one with a kind of confident, understated class. And like Talavera, Weft & Warp is one of the best restaurants in Scottsdale, resort or not.
Details: Andaz Scottsdale, 6114 N. Scottsdale Road. 480-368-1234, scottsdale.andaz.hyatt.com.
Wright’s at The Biltmore
Contrary to popular belief, Frank Lloyd Wright didn’t design The Biltmore, even if the name of its flagship restaurant doesn’t do much to dispel the notion. But the influence of Wright on the room is palpable, as are the flavors of the region on its chef, Brian Peterson, who deserves more attention for his work at Wright’s than he’s getting.
Details: Arizona Biltmore Resort and Spa, 2400 E. Missouri Ave., Phoenix. 602-381-7632, arizonabiltmore.com.