Hot places for barbecue
Sure it’s summer, so what better time to bring on the heat? Dining writer Dominic Armato lists his 12 top picks for barbecue restaurants in Phoenix.
Looking for evidence that Phoenix barbecue is ascendant? Look no further. ❚ When we first published this list in May 2016, fewer than half of the restaurants mentioned below were included. That isn’t because we hadn’t found them. It’s because they didn’t yet exist. ❚ In just three short years, the evolution of the local barbecue scene has been nothing short of spectacular. Good barbecue is now the norm, and great barbecue is easier to come by than ever before. ❚ I’ve visited more than 50 barbecue joints across Phoenix and these are the dozen I’d return to. ❚ Here are the best barbecue restaurants in Phoenix:
Bryan’s Black Mountain Barbecue
A fixture on the scene, Bryan’s has been around forever — or at least it seems like it. And after all these years chef and owner Bryan Dooley is still doing his thing, and his signature style is still drawing folks despite the long trek to Cave Creek. Dooley favors pecan for a lighter smoke flavor, and the Culinary Institute of America grad executes his brisket, ribs and pulled pork with precision. A sauce with a vinegary kick pairs nicely with his flavorful rub, and his sides — including a slaw with green olives and some killer beans — are almost too good for a barbecue joint.
Details: 6130 E. Cave Creek Road,
Cave Creek. 480-575-7155, bryansbarbecue.com.
Caldwell County BBQ
Just when he thought he was out, it pulled him back in. Clay Caldwell is the Michael Corleone of Phoenix barbecue, a former pig farmer and founder of Waldo’s BBQ who got out of the business altogether before returning to launch Caldwell County BBQ, one of the best new additions to the scene. Though pork was always his purview, the star at Caldwell County is actually the brisket, possessed of a gorgeous, silky texture and an outstanding, peppery bark. Which isn’t to say that the ribs and pulled pork aren’t also quite good, as is a nice jalapeno sausage, studded with little bits of smoky cheddar cheese. Sides are solid, including mac and cheese with a little green chile heat and a corn casserole that may be built on canned kernels but still has a kind of cuddly, comforting charm.
Details: 18324 E. Nunneley Road, Gilbert. 480-892-0512, caldwellcountybbq.com.
Danky’s Bar-B-Q
Those who dig an aggressive, edgy smoke on their meat will appreciate Danky’s. A thick layer of hickory makes for some solid brisket, ribs and pulled pork, among other options. A pair of sweet relish-based sauces border on bizarre — though the green chile-laced javelina sauce is uniquely compelling — but those with more traditional tastes will find solace in a sweet and vinegary house sauce made with plenty of spice. Smoky ‘cue, crisp fried okra and some well-balanced, meaty beans make for a very solid plate. Details: 4727 E. Bell Road, Phoenix. 602-996-2016, dankysbbq.com.
Hek Yeah BBQ
The hours are a little awkward and the menu isn’t always fully available, but Kenny Lorenz’s quirky north Phoenix neighborhood joint should be a mandatory stop for anybody who cares about ‘cue. The pulled pork is tender and perfectly seasoned and the chicken is accented with a flavorful rub. But most importantly, on a good day, the brisket at Hek Yeah might be the best in town not made by a guy named Holmes. It has a thick, peppery bark, sweet smoke scent and gorgeous ripples of fat that melt on your tongue.
Details: 15044 N. Cave Creek Road, Phoenix. 602-626-8404, hekyeahbbq.com.
Homer’s Smokehouse BBQ
Perhaps more than any other type of food, great barbecue has a habit of quietly popping up in unassuming places, and a dusty street corner in the far reaches of San Tan Valley certainly qualify. At Homer’s Smokehouse BBQ, Stan Chaffin sends out some exceptional smoked meats. Though his brisket and ribs lack the gentle, yielding pull of some other local all-stars, this is some of the most deliciously thick, complex smoke flavor in town. And Homer’s is the rare barbecue joint where the sides practically deserve equal billing. Fresh corn frizzled in cast iron is a bright, summery explosion, tender biscuits exude the sour scent of buttermilk and Chaffin’s french fries, cooked to a golden crisp in duck fat, just might be the best in town. Be sure to take home a cinnamon roll. If it lasts long enough to make it to the car, that is.
Details: 1532 W. Ocotillo Road, San Tan Valley. 480-440-9734, homers-smokehouse-bbq.business.site.
JL Smokehouse
Since I added it to the list a year and a half ago, JL Smokehouse has gone from a sneaky south Phoenix secret to one of the most respected barbecue joints in town, now with a second location in Sunnyslope. That’s a testament to the truly excellent smoked meat offered by James Lewis. Lewis goes by JL, though he insists the initials stand for “Just Love.” The name fits. The only thing bigger than JL’s joyous personality is the flavor of his barbecue, served with a splash of understated sauce that gently supports the flavor of the meat. The pulled pork might be the best I’ve tried. The ribs combine a tender chew with killer bark, the smoked sausage is a juicy, Kielbasa-like specimen with a killer snap, and even items like smoked chicken — too often served bone dry — are excellent here. Add some sticky mac and cheese, perfectly balanced coleslaw and a cup of peppery stewed greens and you have one of the best barbecue joints in town that’s finally getting its due.
Details: 1712 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, 501-353-6844. Also, 10423 N. 19th Ave., Phoenix, 602-314-6301. jlsmokehouse.com.
Little Miss BBQ
Still king of the roost, Phoenix’s smoky barbecue nexus is the original Little Miss BBQ on University. Moreover, while the new Sunnyslope location isn’t the same intimate experience as the first, it offers most of the original’s quality with a fraction of the wait. While the scene around him is slowly catching up, Scott Holmes is throwing down brisket so good that even Texas is paying attention. Holmes is unashamed to cite Austin’s famed Franklin Barbecue as his model, and though his fatty brisket, with its silky, meltaway texture and aggressively peppery bark is the undisputed star, every meat on the menu can compete with the best in town. The quality and consistency at Little Miss BBQ are relentless, and Holmes’ influence on other Valley pitmasters will continue to be felt for years to come.
Details: 4301 E. University Drive, Phoenix, 602-437-1177. Also, 8901 N. Seventh St., Phoenix, 602-314-6922. littlemissbbq.com.
Naked BBQ / NakedQ
Oren Hartman continues to do great things at Naked BBQ, now with a second Scottsdale location, called NakedQ, and a third in Chandler on the way. Like
Holmes, Hartman throws down some serious brisket, though his smoke and seasoning are a little lighter. If you can tear yourself away from the beef, there isn’t a miss on the menu, from ribs to pulled pork to sausage and more, depending on Hartman’s whims. The meats are served unadorned (hence “Naked”) and Hartman provides a full complement of sauces that are thoughtfully designed to match his meats. Just a little dab, please — this stuff is far too good to drown.
Details: 2340 W. Bell Road, Phoenix, 602-439-4227. Also, 10240 N. 90th St., Scottsdale. 480-912-2102, thenakedbbq.com.
Pork on a Fork
Sometimes, these things come in waves. Right around the time Dooley was setting up shop in Cave Creek, Wes Hansen and Justin Erickson were selling in farmers markets, bringing in fresh pork products from Erickson’s family farm in Nebraska. Not long thereafter, Pork on a Fork went brick and mortar, and five years later, they remain a favorite. The pork products are the strongest offerings, including a very nice pulled pork and smoky, pink ribs with a thin, darkly sweet glaze.
Details: 1515 W. Deer Valley Road, Phoenix, 623-434-1794. Also, 1949 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-8848227, porkonafork.com.
Texas BBQ House
Little Miss BBQ may have stolen their thunder, but Texas barbecue fans shouldn’t overlook Texas BBQ House, a south Phoenix stalwart that is long on flavor and character. Situated on a dusty corner, this diminutive joint is equal parts sass and grit. They sling meat by weight, set it on paper and load up a plastic soda crate with your spoils. The brisket is subtly seasoned, though tender and flavorful. The jalapeño sausage is especially tasty, with a clean, fresh heat and a nice snap.
Details: 5037 S. 24th St., Phoenix. 602-343-6447, texasbbqhouseaz.com.
Trapp Haus BBQ
When a barbecue joint gets cute and starts throwing out crazy concoctions, that’s usually because they’re trying to distract from mediocre meat. Not so at Trapp Haus, where Phil “The Grill” Johnson’s brash, personal spin on the classics is a joy to explore. Solid brisket has a wildly spiced bark with cumin and mustard seed while the stronger pork offerings have a great pull and sweet smoke. True standouts, however, include house-made hot links with a perfect grind and a gorgeous, papery snap. Also, Johnson makes the best barbecued chicken I’ve tried, smoked until tender and juicy, then flash fried to lend the cumin-scented skin a delicate crisp. Add some cool cole slaw, cornbread that explodes with a fresh jalapeno scent when you tear it apart and a tub of perfect collard greens and you’ve got something special.
Details: 511 E. Roosevelt St., Phoenix. 602-466-5462, trapphausbbq.com.
West Alley BBQ & Smokehouse
I won’t pretend to be an authority on Tennessee barbecue, but the Tennesseans I’ve spoken to seem awfully pleased with West Alley BBQ, and I am too. This western cousin of the Jackson, Tennessee, original is a big, modern space with a full bar and some mighty fine smoked meat. Forget the brisket. Pork is king in Tennessee, and the only thing better than the heavily scented ribs — smoked over almond rather than difficult-tosource hickory — is the pulled pork sandwich on a soft bun with a heap of coleslaw and a healthy dose of thin, vinegary sauce.
Details: 111 W. Boston St., Chandler. 480-508-5435, westalleybbq.com.
How we picked the spots
Friendships have been destroyed over the definition of barbecue, much less what constitutes “proper” or good barbecue. So, a few ground rules:
❚ We’re talking meat smoked low and slow — long cooks at low temperatures, and plenty of smoke for the meat to absorb. We’re not talking “barbecue” in the sense that you might refer to a backyard barbecue, with grilled burgers and hot dogs.
❚ We’re primarily focused on the meat. Sauces and sides are supporting players.
❚ We’re not playing tradition police. Meat is not the same as it is in your hometown? Don’t care. If it tastes good, let’s eat it.
❚ We care about consistency, but remember that barbecue is a finicky beast. Tiny variations in the wood or the cook or the meat or the weather can make for wild swings in quality.