Cool off in rim country
Beat the heat at lakes on the Mogollon Rim
Arizona’s Mogollon Rim, with its wonderful topography and lakes, is a perfect summer getaway.
Few states offer such diverse topography as Arizona. In some ways it is the story of desert and mountains, the low and high, but it is more complicated than that. We have canyons with few peers, deep slashing wounds rich with color. We are dotted with rolling grassy plains, volcanic cinder fields, soaring monoliths and crumbling badlands. But perhaps most startling of all is the geological belligerence of the Mogollon Rim.
The Rim is simply a massive wall that nearly cleaves the state in half. The giant escarpment stretches for 200 miles from the red rocks of Sedona to New Mexico, forming the southern edge of the Colorado Plateau.
It changes everything. Below the rim are sun-spanked lowlands, deserts and grassy valleys. Atop the rim, cool temperatures await. The world’s largest contiguous ponderosa pine forest stretches for miles and surrounds a series of sparkling lakes. It’s hard to imagine a more perfect summer getaway.
So whether you like to fish, kayak, hike or just sit in the shade gazing across water, Mogollon Rim lakes are just a short drive away.
Where are the Mogollon Rim lakes?
Woods Canyon, Chevelon Canyon and Bear Canyon lakes are reached via Forest Road 300, also known as the Rim Road.
From Payson, drive east on State Route 260 for about 29 miles. The Mogollon Visitor Center on the south side of the road is a good place to stop for information. Directly across the highway is the turnoff for the Rim Road.
To reach Willow Springs Lake, don’t turn on FR 300. Instead, continue another mile east on SR 260 to the signed turnoff for FR 149 on the left.
Before starting out be aware of forest closures and fire restrictions. And please behave responsibly to protect our forests. Check current conditions at firerestrictions.us/az.
Woods Canyon Lake
Shortly after you turn onto Forest Road 300, a couple of signed pullouts beckon. These big-ledged protrusions from the cliff top reveal panoramas that seem to stretch forever. Stop and enjoy the stunning views.
You can even walk the Rim Lake Vista Trail, a level partially paved path that slips through the trees and rocky outcroppings to meander along the edge of the Rim, pinned between cliff and sky.
To reach Woods Canyon Lake, continue 4 miles along FR 300 to the signed turnoff for FR 105.
Although small in size — only 55 acres — Woods Canyon is the most popular of the Rim water holes. But even though you won’t be alone, it’s still a peaceful getaway. Boats with gas motors are prohibited, which helps preserve the tranquility of the forest.
This is a great spot for those looking to explore. An easy 5.2-mile trail crosses the earthen dam and wanders into the forest making a loop around the lake. The trail traces the water’s edge except for one area where it swings wide to avoid a bald eagle’s nest.
Shafts of sunlight stream through the pine canopy, illuminating clumps of ferns and wild roses. Cross the grassy little glen sliced by the creek feeding the lake and return to your starting point.
Woods Canyon offers a picnic area and a store with boat rentals. Multiple campgrounds are scattered through the nearby forest. The closest are Spillway (26 sites; no hookups; $28 per night) and Aspen (148 sites, no hookups; $25 per night). The nearest showers are at Canyon Point Campground, 10 miles away. Reservations can be made by calling 877-444-6777 or at www.recreation.gov.
Chevelon Canyon Lake
Those who want their own private hunk of Rim Country should set their sights on Chevelon Canyon Lake.
Located in the bottom of a steep-sided canyon, the 208-acre lake is a scenic gem and the most remote of the Rim lakes. A high-clearance vehicle is needed to reach the primitive campground. After that it requires a downhill hike of nearly a mile to reach the water. That thins out the crowds considerably.
Bring a map for this drive just in case. About 8.5 miles down FR 300, turn right onto FR 169. Travel 12 miles on this twisting dirt road through big stands of ponderosa pine. Turn right onto FR 169B, a rutted, rough road and drive 2 miles to Chevelon Canyon Lake Campground (first come, first served), which has picnic tables and a vault toilet.
Park and hike down the old road (closed to vehicles) for three-quarters of a mile to the water. It’s a moderately steep hike with loose rocks so you won’t see many boats on the lake but it is popular with anglers using float tubes.
Chevelon Canyon Lake is known for trophy-size rainbow and brown trout, and for its dramatic setting in the narrow canyon, the walls bristling with pine trees. Enjoy the solitude and cool, clear air. It’s all part of the Rim Country experience.
Bear Canyon Lake
Past Woods Canyon Lake, FR 300 turns to dirt as it continues west. It’s a bit bouncy at times but can be managed in a cautiously driven sedan. This is part of the old wagon road built by Gen. George Crook to move troops and supplies between military posts in the 1870s as the U.S. Army battled the Apaches.
To reach secluded Bear Canyon Lake, drive about 12 miles from the start of FR 300 and turn right on FR 89. Go about 2 miles to the lake.
There is no boat ramp and the only way to reach the water is a quarter-mile hike through hushed woods. It’s a remarkably quiet spot, a narrow slash of water wrapped in pine trees. This 60acre oasis supports a healthy population of trout including rainbows, brookies and cutthroat.
Dispersed camping is permitted in the undeveloped campground. There are vault toilets but no other amenities. Pack out your trash.
Willow Springs Lake
The 150-acre Willow Springs Lake is ringed by pine, oak and fir trees. The 7,600-foot elevation provides welcome relief from desert basins.
Boats are limited to 10 horsepower and a paved ramp provides easy access. The lake is stocked with trout through the fall. The upper ends of the two long coves are good spots to try for rainbow and brown trout. The lake also supports a population of largemouth and smallmouth bass.
If you’d like to drop a line, an Arizona fishing license is required, as it is for all Rim lakes. You can buy one at the store at Woods Canyon Lake.
Sinkhole Campground is within walking distance of the water, if you don’t mind walking a mile. With 26 sites, it includes tent camping, picnic tables and vault toilets for $20 per night.
The larger Canyon Point Campground (113 sites, 32 with electricity) is 5 miles away. It has picnic tables, showers, flush toilets and drinking water. Cost is $28 for a non-electric site, $33 for electric.
There are some first-come, firstserved sites at both campgrounds. Or reserve by calling 877-444-6777 or at www.recreation.gov.