Why you need to try new dinner menu at New Wave
New wave icons of the ’80s reinvented themselves. Why not New Wave?
Probably not the meaning Country and Sergio Velador originally intended, but since they expanded Super Chunk Sweets & Treats to include New Wave Market in 2017, the quirky little sweet shop/café/restaurant has made a habit of exploring new ways to serve all things delicious to the denizens of Old Town Scottsdale.
The latest wave? Full-service dinner. This summer, the husband-and-wife duo’s mercurial little spot phased out breakfast (except for Saturday brunch), adding some heftier options at lunchtime in preparation for the launch of a 15-item dinner menu, served four nights a week.
That’s embracing a higher degree of difficulty, particularly in such a competitive neighborhood. But one month into their new dinner offerings, it’s clear the Veladors, along with chef Lester Gonzalez, can sling a lot more than sweets, salads and bagel sandwiches.
Beverage options include wine and cocktails
It’s considerably less sunny during the dinner hour in November, but New Wave — having dropped the “Market” moniker in its most recent refresh — remains awash in bright colors and kitsch, brimming with the retro strains of Tears for Fears, Duran Duran and Talk Talk.
Country oversees the kitchen crew while Sergio runs front of house, maintaining a laid-back air in keeping with the vibe of a casual neighborhood joint.
In addition to beer and wine, New Wave now offers a short list of cocktails. The Pretty in Pink, so apropos, brings a red-headed Hughesian sweetness to vodka-spiked Caperitif with a strawberry blush and a twinge of tart rhubarb. In The Sun, meanwhile, hardens the light, pineapple buzz of house-fermented tepache with a little tequila, rum and chile-infused Ancho Verde.
They’ll get things humming until the food starts to arrive.
Don’t miss the Bangkok fries
Fish is plentiful, including a couple of nicely chilled numbers to start.
Slabs of hamachi crudo lean East, splashed with black garlic ponzu and a bit of New Wave’s excellent lacto-fermented hot sauce. Slivers of silky cured salmon, meanwhile, lean West, paired with blackberries and topped with a crunchy jumble of herb and crushed ba
gel gremolata.
The Bangkok fries are a punchy little bowl of hedonistic pyrotechnics, doused with green curry and a drizzle of mayonnaise, topped with crispy peanuts, fried shallots and a fragrant shot of Thai basil. Not hot enough for you? A bottle of Shark Sriracha — a true Thai Sriracha that’s sweet and fruity, in contrast to California’s ketchupy Huy Fong — will bring it up to speed.
Those who prefer their spuds a little less ornery — though no less delicious — will want to give the pastrami short rib scalloped potatoes a try. Layered with cheddar and smoothed out with a creamy puddle of crème fraiche, these tender ‘taters are full-on meatified, featuring pockets of luscious house-smoked beef perked up with pickled mustard seeds.
It’s tempting to order a bunch more potatoes and call it an evening, but that’d mean missing out on some excellent large plates.
Fabulous entrees include 100 layer lasagna
At the risk of encouraging an arms race, I endorse the 100 layer lasagna. I’ll let someone who’s a little more pedantic tabulate and certify the layer count. Whether the title is literal or figurative, it’s a tasty slice of stratified pasta — nice bite, not too heavy with a bold, smooth tomato sauce and some nice, crusty edges.
A chaotic mound of fried rice, studded with smoked brisket and sweet chunks of Chinese sausage, sports a very soft texture. It plays more like a base for gorgeous seared scallops and a lacy fried egg, topped with fragrant chimichurri and a splash of tomatillo salsa.
A simpler standout is the fabulous chicken fried trout — two substantial filets in a crisp, light coating, served with little more than a pile of delicate cabbage slaw, Sriracha-spiked remoulade and a charred lemon for a touch of smoky acid. And a simple flat iron steak is another strong dish, served with delightfully chewy dandelion greens, a puddinglike helping of golden sticky rice and a playful sprinkling of mixed rice crackers.
Dinner may be serious business, but as usual, the Veladors seem to be having an awful lot of fun with it.