On the edge at North Rim
Your guide to Grand Canyon’s North Rim
If you’ve never been to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, you’ll be surprised to discover how different the experience is from that of the South Rim.
If you’ve never been to the North Rim of Grand Canyon, you’ll be surprised how different the experience is from the South Rim. Even on a busy day, the area is less hectic and more relaxed than the much more heavily visited South Rim. The experience is almost intimate, if you can use that word in relation to the yawning abyss.
But the season is fleeting: The North Rim is only open from May 15-Oct. 15. And this year, the North Rim had to delay its opening in reaction to the new coronavirus pandemic. It opened for day use on June 5. The Grand Canyon Lodge plans to open June 15 and the North Rim Campground is expected to open July 1, after a construction project is completed.
Most people congregate around the visitor center and lodge, with its inviting patio and numerous overlooks. And it’s usually hopping at the Point Imperial and Cape Royal overlooks. But you can find a lot of peace and quiet elsewhere on the North Rim. This guide will help you plan your
trip.
North Rim Grand Canyon lodging
Grand Canyon Lodge has the only accommodations at the North Rim.
The property consists of the lodge building — which has a restaurant, gathering rooms and that popular patio — plus several room options scattered about. From least to most expensive, choose from Frontier cabins, Pioneer cabins and Western cabins. Some Western cabins have rim views; the rest of the lodgings are set in the pines.
There also are motel rooms but those will be unavailable in 2020. They are being used by park employees who can no longer live in the staff dormitory because of social-distancing needs.
Details: 877-386-4383, https:// www.grandcanyonforever.com.
North Rim Campground
The park’s North Rim Campground has 90 spaces for tents and RVs set among the pines. Normally sites can be reserved online but in 2020 the campground will open late and be on a firstcome, first-served basis in July and August due to a major waterline replacement project. It’s expected to open July 1 and payment is by credit card only. Amenities include restrooms, general store and dump station but no hookups. The showers and laundry will be closed this season. The campground usually fills up each day.
Details: https://www.nps.gov/grca/ planyourvisit/cg-nr.htm. For reservations between Sept. 1 and Oct. 31, 2020, call 877-444-6777 or book at https:// www.recreation.gov.
Lodging outside the park
Kaibab Lodge: This rustic property 5 miles north of the North Rim entrance dates to about 1926. The setting is forest and meadow, and wildlife is abundant. It’s a true getaway — there are no TVs or telephones, and you won’t have cell service or Wi-Fi. Accommodations consist of cabins in configurations ranging from single to quad to fit groups of varying sizes. A restaurant serves takeout breakfast and dinner. Kaibab Lodge is open mid-May through mid-October.
Details: 928-638-2389, http://kaibablodge.com.
Jacob Lake Inn: This one-stop property sits at the junction of U.S. 89A and State Route 67 about 45 miles north of the park entrance. In addition to motel rooms and cabins, Jacob Lake Inn has a restaurant, bakery (trust us — buy some cookies), small grocery shop and a gift shop with an extensive collection of American Indian art. A gas station is adjacent.
Details: 928-643-7232, https:// www.jacoblake.com.
Camping outside the park
DeMotte Campground is in Kaibab National Forest 7 miles north of the park entrance. It has 38 sites with picnic tables, grills and drinking water but no hookups. It’s open from mid-May through mid-October. Reservations can be made at https://www.recreation.gov.
Kaibab Camper Village is in the woods near Jacob Lake Inn. It’s open from May 14-Oct. 31. Kaibab Camper Village has sites for tents and RVs (water, electric and sewer hookups available) and can accommodate RVs larger than 40 feet. There also are coin-operated showers, a laundry and a store. The campground is open mid-May through mid-October.
Details: 928-643-7804, https:// www.kaibabcampervillage.com.
If you prefer dispersed camping, there are plenty of forest roads where you can find a spot.
Where to eat at the North Rim
Options are limited this year due to COVID-19 concerns. The dining room at Grand Canyon Lodge will open for takeout starting June 15. A limited breakfast menu will be offered from 6:30 to 10 a.m., lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner from 4:30 to 9 p.m. Graband-go food including pizza and sandwiches will be available at the deli and saloon.
The general store sells groceries, but be sure to bring whatever you’ll want to meet your dietary needs and preferences. Get updates at https://www.grandcanyonforever.com/covid-19.
There are plenty of places to picnic at the North Rim — sites have tables and some are perched right near the canyon’s edge. Pack a cooler and eat outdoors, or pick up supplies at the general store.
North Rim scenic drives
Cape Royal: From Grand Canyon Lodge, go north on State Route 67. To the right (east) about a mile beyond the well-signed North Kaibab Trailhead is the road that crosses the Walhalla Plateau to Cape Royal and Point Imperial, two don’t-miss viewpoints. Follow it about 5 miles to a “T” intersection. Turn south and go about 14 miles to Cape Royal, one of the canyon’s premier viewpoints. A fairly short, easy trail begins on the southeastern side of the parking area and leads out over Angel’s Window, a huge natural arch that juts into the canyon.
Point Imperial: Point Imperial is 3 miles north of the “T” intersection that also leads to Cape Royal. At more than 8,800 feet, it is the highest point on either rim and offers unrivaled views, especially of Mount Hayden and Saddle Mountain. An easy, 2-mile trail leads north from Point Imperial through an area burned by 2000’s Outlet Fire. The trail officially ends at the park boundary, but you can continue on to the Nankoweap Trail and Saddle Mountain area.
Vista Encantada: This overlook, several miles south of the “T” junction on the way to Cape Royal, offers impressive views of the Painted Desert to the east.
Walhalla Glades: The remains of this prehistoric structure, believed to be almost 1,000 years old, are on the west side of the road a mile or so north of Cape Royal.
6 North Rim hiking trails at a glance
Bright Angel Point: The paved, quarter-mile trail leads from the patio behind Grand Canyon Lodge out along a finger of rock to a magnificent overlook.
Transept Trail: The 1.5-mile-long route snakes along the canyon’s rim northwest of the lodge to North Rim Campground and provides fine views of a side canyon known as the Transept.
Cape Final: About 2.5 miles before the end of road to Cape Royal is the Cape Final Trailhead. The 4-mile round-trip hike through woods is mostly flat and takes you to several dandy overlooks.
Uncle Jim Trail: This 5-mile round trip starts at the North Kaibab Trailhead and follows the Ken Patrick Trail for 3⁄4 mile. At a well-marked junction, turn south on the Uncle Jim Trail, which loops through a forested area to Uncle
Jim Point, looking into the canyon.
Widforss Trail: A terrific 10-mile round trip through the forest to a remote viewpoint. Much of the first half skirts the rim of Transept Canyon. The latter half ducks into the woods before emerging at a splendid Canyon overlook.
Ken Patrick Trail: This trail meanders 10 miles one way through forest from the North Kaibab Trailhead parking area to Point Imperial. You may want to arrange a shuttle or have someone pick you up at the other end. Some segments are sketchy, so bring a map and compass.