PAN BAGNAT

Feel free to do your own variation of this classic. Lettuce, cheese, fennel, pickle, radishes, peppers and pickles: All would make nice additions.

Slice the loaf in half lengthwise. (If you are using a fat, round loaf, you may want to pull out some of the soft interior to make room for the filling.) Douse both halves with olive oil, about 2 tablespoons per side. Set aside.

Place garlic clove on a cutting board and chop, sprinkling with salt as you go along. Press with the side of the knife blade to make a paste. Place garlic in a medium bowl with anchovies, vinegar, mustard and a heavy pinch or two of black pepper. Mix well. Drizzle in 2 tablespoons of olive oil, whisking constantly. Place cucumbers in the bowl and stir to coat. Set aside.

Spoon tuna over bottom side part of sliced loaf. Top with egg (if using), tomato, the marinated cucumbers, onion, olives and basil leaves. Drizzle any remaining vinaigrette over the filling. Place top of loaf on the bread, and press gently.

Cover tightly with plastic wrap, then tin foil, and place in a plastic bag. Using a cutting board or chopping block, press firmly on the sandwich. You want to make it as flat as possible. You may have to put it on a chair or stool, cover with the cutting board, and sit on it. Or you may use a heavy skillet or Dutch oven, bricks or heavy books to weigh down the sandwich.

You may slice into pieces and serve or chill until ready to eat, up to 24 hours. The longer you wait, the better it tastes. Serves: 6-8.

332 calories (percent of calories from fat, 47), 15 grams protein, 29 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 17 grams fat (3 grams saturated), 77 milligrams cholesterol, 732 milligrams sodium.