DINING RECAP LINTON’S

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I thought Linton’s at the Atlanta Botanical Garden would be a groundbreaking garden-to-table concept, but the cuisine coming out of this kitchen does not showcase culinary muscle.

I hoped for something more glamorous than plain old broccoli as a supporting member of a tagliatelle dish. Broccoli also showed up in a so-called blackened cabbage dish that included wilted, not charred, cabbage. The saving grace on that dish: ricotta-stuffed, fried squash blossoms.

On two occasions, I ordered the poached egg and johnnycake appetizer. The first time, the yolk had reached hard-boiled status. The second time, the johnnycake was rubbery and overcooked. There were moments of deliciousness. An heirloom tomato salad held halves of plumand pear-shaped cherry tomatoes at their peak with fromage blanc, basil and croutons atop cucumber gazpacho.

A compressed watermelon salad was beefed up with country ham, ricotta, arugula and a benne seed wafer.

The highlight was the paneed mountain trout. A crispy skin, flaky flesh, an assembly of heat-wilted dandelion greens, Benton’s bacon, creamed corn, white asparagus and pan-fried onions brought out all sorts of sweet, salty and savory flavors.

If it’s lunchtime, Linton’s fresh salads, soups and sandwiches will sate you. If it’s nighttime, enjoy the glow of Chihuly sculptures. Don’t expect fireworks from the food.

BECKY STEIN PHOTOGRAPHY CONTRIBUTED BY The Compressed Melon Salad at Linton’s at the Atlanta Botanical Garden features country ham, ricotta, benne tuille and arugula.