SWEET SOY-BRAISED CHICKEN (ANDONG JJIMDAK) FROM YET TUH KOREAN RESTAURANT, DORAVILLE

Andong Jjimdak is based around the union of soy sauce, sugar, rice syrup, sake and oyster sauce. A handful of dried red chili peppers gives the sweetness a distinct kick. Andong is a city in east-central Korea, and some have traced the roots of this dish to a section of Andong Gu Market called Chicken Alley. It is there, they say, the dish was conceived in the 1980s as a way of competing with (or possibly joining) the growing Korean fried chicken craze.

Lightly season chicken thighs all over with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, mirin, sugar, rice syrup, oyster sauce, sake, sesame oil and 1 teaspoon black pepper.

Set a large, high-sided saute pan or Dutch oven on high heat and add the vegetable oil. Once the oil is lightly smoking, add the chicken, skin side down, and sear for 3 minutes, or until lightly browned. Flip and sear the other side for another 3 minutes, or until lightly browned.

Add the potatoes, carrot, onion, scallion, garlic, cabbage and dried chilis, along with the soy sauce mixture and 1 cup of chicken stock. Bring to a boil and lower heat to gently simmer for 20 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender and the chicken is cooked through. Stir in sweet potato noodles. Add more stock if needed to keep the dish saucy. Remove from heat. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, soy sauce and sugar; you’re looking for a balance of sweet, salty and spicy. Serve with sesame seeds.

Serves: 4-6 Per serving, based on 4: 730 calories (percent of calories from fat, 49), 41 grams protein, 53 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams fiber, 41 grams fat (9 grams saturated), 151 milligrams cholesterol, 1,581 milligrams sodium. Adapted from “Koreatown” by Matt Rodbard and Deuki Hong (Clarkson Potter, $30).