The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Tunisian-spiced butter makes everything better

- By JeanMarie Brownson Chicago Tribune 2 tablespoon­s whole coriander seeds 1 tablespoon cumin seeds 2 teaspoons caraway seeds 1/2 stick (1/4 cup) butter, softened 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tablespoon­s Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes 1

Weeknight dinners challenge all of us. I employ a few tricks to help lessen the angst: I keep a stash of individual­ly wrapped, quickto-cook proteins in the freezer; stock the refrigerat­or with interestin­g condiments; and seek out pre-cut vegetables in the produce section.

Seasoned butters top my list of go-to flavor enhancemen­ts. This fall, I’m enchanted with tabil, a Tunisian spice blend made from coriander, caraway and cumin. Stirred into butter, the mixture proves reminiscen­t of the seasoned butter I smear over the Moroccan seasoned lamb known as mechoui. Armed with tabilseaso­ned butter, weeknight pork chops receive a major upgrade.

Whole spices mean big flavor and prove worth the time it takes to grind them. Use an electric spice grinder or coffee mill to grind spices quickly, or employ a mortar and pestle if you like to exert energy. If using ground spices, use slightly less than the amounts of whole spice listed.

Make the butter days or even weeks in advance, and once it’s firm, cut it into tablespoon portions and freeze them solid.

For the pork chops, I always prefer bone-in for the added flavor and moisture. The same recipe tastes great with boneless chicken thighs, just reduce cooking time by 3 or 4 minutes.

Serve the chops with cauliflowe­r couscous accompanie­d by crusty bread to sop up the butter and a glass of rosé wine or hoppy beer. You deserve it.

For deeper flavor, toast the seeds in a small, dry nonstick skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. (Don’t walk away, or they’ll burn.) Cool.

Try substituti­ng shredded trimmed, halved Brussels sprouts for the riced cauliflowe­r for a green variation.

Finely grind the coriander, cumin and caraway seeds with a spice grinder, coffee mill or mortar and pestle; set aside.

Put softened butter into a small bowl. Stir in garlic and mustard until blended. Stir in ground seeds and pepper flakes. Transfer to a sheet of plastic wrap and shape into a log. Refrigerat­e until firm. Makes: about 1/2 cup Nutrition informatio­n per tablespoon: 65 calories, 6 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 15 mg cholestero­l, 2 g carbohydra­tes, 0 g sugar, 1 g protein, 93 mg sodium, 1 g fiber

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add onion; cook until translucen­t but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add cauliflowe­r; cook until crisptende­r, about 5 minutes.

Stir in garlic; cook 1 minute. Add black-eyed peas, kale and tabil butter. Cook until greens are wilted and everything is heated through, about 1 minute. Toss with lime juice and serve. Makes: about 6 cups, 6 servings Nutrition informatio­n per serving: 155 calories, 5 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 5 mg cholestero­l, 22 g carbohydra­tes, 5 g sugar, 7 g protein, 66 mg sodium, 6 g fiber

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