Recipes for the ramen bowls inside,

Sure, you can make ramen noodles by hand and simmer vats of bone broth for hours. (Put that on your list of things to master — when you retire.) For now, here are three recipes that will turn you into a ramen doctor par excellence, ready to serve up star-

JASON LIANG’S ELEGANT CLAM AND CHICKEN RAMEN

Brush Sushi Izakaya executive chef Jason Liang shared this simplified version of the clam and chicken ramen he serves at his Decatur restaurant. 12 Manila or Little Neck clams 1 small Thai chili, seeded and minced 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 1/2 cup sake 2 1/2 cups unsalted chicken stock

(see note) 3 tablespoons soy sauce 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 packs of ramen noodles (Liang

prefers Ottogi brand Jin Ramen) 1 cooked chicken breast, sliced 2 poached or soft-boiled eggs 2 tablespoons minced shallots 2 tablespoons chopped green

onions

Clean the clams thoroughly and set aside. Place the Thai chili, garlic, sake and chicken stock in a medium-size pan over medium heat. Bring to simmer. Add the clams, cover, and cook until the clams open, about 5 minutes. Add soy sauce and butter, and stir to combine.

Meanwhile, cook the ramen according to the package directions. Drain noodles and divide between two bowls.

Pour the soup over the noodles. Divide the clams and the chicken slices between bowls. Place an egg in each bowl. (If it’s a boiled egg, slice in two.) Garnish with shallots and green onions and serve immediately. Serves: 2

To make the stock: Place 2-3 chicken thighs or backs into a pot. (You may use any chicken scraps, bones, and skin you happen to have.) Add 2 cloves garlic and 5 cups water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Turn heat to low, and simmer gently until the liquid is reduced by half. (You want 2 1/2 cups of stock.) This will take about an hour. Per serving: 840 calories (percent of calories from fat, 37), 52 grams protein, 79 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 32 grams fat (16 grams saturated), 325 milligrams cholesterol, 2,738 milligrams sodium.

STYLING BY WENDELL BROCK / CONTRIBUTED BY CHRIS HUNT Brush Sushi Izakaya executive chef Jason Liang gave us a quick and easy version of the Clam and Chicken Ramen he serves at his Decatur restaurant. He steams Manila or Little Neck clams in a broth of rich chicken stock, sake and butter, then pours the soup over Ottogi brand Jin Ramen and tops with sliced chicken breast and a soft-boiled egg. It’s an elegant meal for two.