This drink, by any name, is sweet

Sorrel, bissap, agua de Jamaica — the drink made from hibiscus flowers goes by many names and variations, and abounds in Washington-area restaurants. In Caribbean places, you’ll encounter sorrel, sweetened and often spiced with cinnamon and cloves (it’s a Christmastime staple in some of the island nations).

In West African spots, you’ll find bissap, also called sobolo.

And in Mexican and Central American eateries, you’ll see agua de Jamaica (pronounced huh-MY-kuh) nestled among other aguas frescas (fresh waters). This version ranges from sweet to pleasantly tart.

“There are many ways that it’s made throughout the [African] diaspora,” says Walter Berry, a radio host on a Washington, D.C.area station who goes by Papa WaBe and learned to make the drink from a Rastaman. Berry’s version is the least sweet we found - “It doesn’t need to be camouflaged with a lot of sugar” — and is sold through a handful of restaurants and stores.

For a Panamanian version, you can sorrell con jengibre, sweet, spicy and ginger-laced.

Whatever version you make, know that the drink takes well to fortification: restaurant owner and chef at Esencias Panamenas in D.C., Yadira Stamp, pairs hers with Seco Herrerano, a Panamanian spirit distilled from sugar cane. It’s her most popular signature cocktail.

1. Cinnamon

The spice adds a bit of warmth and sweet scent.

2. Sugar

Sweetness varies by who’s doing the stirring. Less sugar results in a somewhat tart, refreshing take. The syrupy bissap is almost berry-like.

3. Hibiscus

The dried calyx of Hibiscus sabdariffa, more commonly known as hibiscus, sorrel or roselle, creates a deep fuchsia drink that can be bracingly tart.

The plant is thought to be native to West Africa. Despite a shared name, it is not to be confused with the herb sorrel, a sour leafy green related to rhubarb.

4. Cloves

Rather than being overpowering, a touch of cloves adds a hint of mystery and depth. The spice, along with cinnamon, is most likely to be in Caribbean versions, but not those from Mexico or Central America.

5. Ginger

When this rhizome is added, you’ll find it lends a pleasant spice, subtle sweetness and alluring complexity.

JENNIFER CHASE / WASHINGTON POST Cinnamon, sugar, hibiscus, cloves and ginger mix for a refreshing drink.