DINING RECAP PETIT CHOU

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Petit Chou means “little cabbage” and in some cases “sweetheart.” It’s a darling place, situated on the edge of Cabbagetown.

At its heart, it’s a souped-up coffee shop with an urban vibe and above-average food.

With grits, Tillamook sharp cheddar, egg and a protein (I like the ham, but you can get veggie or chicken sausage, or bacon), the Cabbagetown Breakfast Bowl is a Southern grain bowl of sorts.

I liked the Croque Madame and the Boursin and Avocado Toast OK but probably wouldn’t order them again. Both of these sprouted-grain-bread creations had a pronounced herb-y flavor, and once I got that in my mouth, it’s all I could taste.

Beginning at 11 a.m., a lunch menu is rolled out. There’s Lemony Chicken Breast; a Southern baguette with Brie, shaved ham, fresh fruit and preserves; and a couple of vegetarian options.

I tried the Ratatouille Sandwich — and loved the stuffing. But the little white loaf that housed it? Too soft, squishy, meh.

I had better luck with the Chicken Liver Mousse.

Sure, I have a few quibbles. But the team has created a place that feels wholly organic to the neighborhood and respectful of its history. They have ambitious plans, for dinner service and cocktails. Hopefully this little cabbage will spread its roots and grow fat.

Petit Chou. 662 Memorial Drive, Atlanta. 470-270-8996, petitchouatl.com.

CONTRIBUTED BY WENDELL BROCK The Chicken Liver Mousse at Petit Chou comes with toast, jam, cornichons, and fresh apple, yellow carrot and watermelon radish slices.