The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
BEER PICKS COCONUT IPA, A SWEETWATER SOUR, CANTILLON
What are you drinking this Labor Day weekend? Keep it local with one of a trio of beers made right here in Atlanta. But if you happen to spot a bottle of rare Classic Gueuze from Brasserie Cantillon, nab it.
Classic Gueuze Brasserie Cantillon,
Brussels, Belgium
Very limited availability in 375 ml or 750 ml bottles and occasionally on draft
Profile: Cantillon Gueuze is brewed with 35 percent wheat, 65 percent malted barley and dried hops, fermented with wild yeast, and aged in centuries-old oak casks. But the final magic comes from the art of blending of 1-, 2- and 3-year-old lambics of various flavors and acidic intensities to create a harmonious bottle-conditioned beer.
The result is a sparkling, dry, Champagne-like beverage with a citrusy aroma and a zesty tart flavor filled with wonderful depth and complexity. Notoriously hard to find, it is among the best examples of gueuze in the world. And if you’re able, you can cellar it for up to 20 years.
Pair with: The refreshing acidity of gueuze is a classic combination with Belgian-style mussels and frites. But it’s also a sparkling complement to seafood in general, including raw oysters and ceviche, and it makes an elegant match for a cheese plate.
To Dan! Coconut Double IPA
Wild Heaven Beer, Avondale Available around metro Atlanta on draft and in limited, hand-labeled cans
Profile: Introduced as “a flavorful, juicy, big IPA featuring fresh coconut,” this limited edition creation was brewed at Wild Heaven for the late, beloved Atlanta beer aficionado Dan Rosen. It’s available only for a short time, and a portion of the proceeds will be donated to help out Rosen’s former wife.
Since I’m not a big fan of coconut in beer, I can well imagine arguing with Dan over this one. I’d probably tell him it should be named Hawaiian Tropic, and we’d probably laugh a lot. Besides a distinctive back of the palate coconote, though, it’s a solid double IPA, with all the fresh, fruity hop aromas and flavors you’d expect.
Pair with: Thinking about joshing Dan, again, I’m tempted to say this beer should be paired with a Mounds bar. But I think he would have liked it served in a coconut shell at a traditional luau with all the poi you can eat.
Belgian Rose
SweetWater Brewing Co., Atlanta Available at the brewery and in 750 ml corked and caged bottles
Profile: Belgian Rose is a fruited Belgian-style ale that was aged for three years with lactobacillus, pediococcus, brettanomyces bruxellensis, and brettanomyces claussenii cultures in a mix of cabernet and merlot barrels. In addition, Georgia-grown blackberries were added to the blend.
Sharp, dry and Champagne-like, with a bracing acidity, it will delight sour beer lovers, though it may be off-putting to anyone not so inclined. The fresh blackberries impart a hazy rose color and a fruity complexity that lingers between the nose and the finish.
Pair with: Try pairing the sourfruity flavors of Belgian Rose with savory dishes such as pan-roasted duck breast or oven-roasted chicken. On the sweeter side, cheesecake or panna cotta, with or without fruit, will make a natural match.
Hops-De-Leon
Torched Hop Brewing Co., Atlanta Available on draft at Torched Hop
Profile: Torched Hop brewmaster Chris Bivins says the goal in designing Hops-De-Leon was to “create a beer with a huge citrus character.” To that end, Bivins employs a variety of citrus-forward hop varieties, including Citra, Amarillo and Simcoe, which are added after fermentation.
The grist bill mixes American two-row, white wheat and a light crystal malt. An American ale yeast strain leaves the beer very dry, and accentuates the hops, adding intensely fruity aromas and flavors, with notes of pineapple, mango and grapefruit.
Pair with: At Torched Hop, HopsDe-Leon often gets paired with the brewpub’s Classic Double cheeseburger. But it would also make a good match for many other menu items, including the Buffalo fried chicken sandwich or the charcuterie pizza with bresaola, fennel salami, prosciutto and bacon.