Max’s Coal Oven Pizzeria

This downtown Atlanta restaurant, owned and operated by the same restaurant group as neighbors Stats Brewpub and Twin Smokers BBQ, is expanding with a second fast-casual location at Perimeter Mall in October. At the new location, diners can expect the same classic combination: big New York-style pizzas, neither thin nor thick, cooked in an old-school coal-fired oven. A build-your-own 12-incher starts at $12 and ranges up to $19 for house specialties.

The coal-fired oven used at Max’s is similar to the technique used in classic, long-running New York institutions like Patsy’s Pizzeria. It doesn’t boast the scorched, blackened crusts that Neapolitan wood-fired ovens achieve, but a more light-golden brown crispness. It is a fine, crunchy and somewhat heftier contrast for classic toppings like pepperoni and sausage.

Minuses: In a world of everexpanding culinary options and distinct, notably sourced ingredients, the rather average toppings at Max’s can feel a little humdrum.

Best pick: Arugula and Prosciutto, with prosciutto, ricotta, mozzarella, Parmesan and a pile of lemon pepper-dressed arugula.

Insider tip: For an extra meaty indulgence, order a plate of the lemon pepper wings, which are cooked to a deep golden brown crisp in the coal-fired oven.

300 Marietta St., Atlanta. 404974-2941, maxsatl.com.

CONTRIBUTED BY WYATT WILLIAMS The Arugula and Prosciutto, with prosciutto, ricotta, mozzarella, Parmesan and a pile of lemon pepper-dressed arugula.