The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Aliño Pizzeria

- — WYATT WILLIAMS

When this North Carolinaba­sed pizza chain opened its third location, in the Mall of Georgia, it may have also taken the title for largest pizzeria in the metro Atlanta area. If it isn’t the largest, it certainly feels that way. The footprint of this 6,200-squarefoot restaurant is matched by ceilings that reach airplane-hangar heights. An open kitchen row of wood-burning ovens, which churn out classicall­y styled Neapolitan pizzas for $15-$18, faces a room full of blond wood communal tables.

Much like the size of the room, the size of the Neapolitan pizzas served here is perhaps a bit more generously portioned than others. At roughly 16 inches in diameter, you could probably serve three people with a single pie. The blistery crust has a nice, classic char, and the clean, bright flavors of the red sauce are an excellent contrast to heavier toppings like sausage or spicy Italian salami.

Minuses: The impressive width of these pies can leave the center of the crust a touch more limp than ideal, even when their charred flavor is just right.

Best pick: Toscana, with sausage, San Marzano tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella, basil leaves and garlic.

Insider tip: The unfussy wine selection, which runs at the budget-friendly rate of $4 a glass and $20 a bottle, includes some easy-drinking table wines like Gabbiano Chianti Classico.

3333 Buford Drive, Buford. 678765-7426, alinopizze­ria.com.

 ?? PHOTO BY WYATT WILLIAMS. ?? The Toscana, with sausage, San Marzano tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella, basil leaves, and garlic.
PHOTO BY WYATT WILLIAMS. The Toscana, with sausage, San Marzano tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella, basil leaves, and garlic.

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