Star Provisions

Is Anne Quatrano, Atlanta’s grande dame of fine dining, actually running a fast-casual pizza joint? No, not exactly. But she is serving pizzas in her new, expanded version of Star Provisions, the retail and counter service space adjoining the recently relocated Bacchanalia. Served from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, pizzas run from $14 to $18 and also happen to be among the best pizzas served in the city right now. Neither traditionally Neapolitan nor exactly American in style, the pies sport extra-crisp thin, golden crusts and the distinct, subtle flavor combinations that her kitchens have long been known for.

On any given day, you’ll have only three or four pizza options on the menu. One pie is a good portion for two people, but ordering two contrasting options will give you a better sense of the kitchen’s range. A recent soppressata-topped pizza was vibrant with the flavor of crushed tomatoes and oregano, while a white pie made with little more than Parmesan, whole pistachios and thinly sliced onion was a compelling combination of salty cheese and lightly sweet nuttiness. Minuses: Unless you have the appetite (or companions) to order whole pies at lunch, the limited hours make it difficult to get your hands on one of these pizzas.

Best pick: Rosa, with Parmesan, pistachios and red onion.

Insider tip: Flawless cured meats, impressive cheeses, and fresh baked breads are for sale to take home in Star Provisions. They’re perfect for an at-home evening snack after a pizza lunch.

1460 Ellsworth Industrial Blvd., Atlanta. 404-365-0410, starprovisions.com.

PHOTO The Rosa has Parmesan, pistachios and red onion.