The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Varuni Napoli
Krog Street Market’s newest tenant is the second outpost of Atlanta-based pizzeria Varuni Napoli. (The first opened on Monroe Drive in Midtown in 2014.) As the name suggests, the pizzas are made in the Neapolitan style, puffy, thin pies with blistered black crusts baked in a beautiful, tile-covered wood-burning oven. The pies, roughly the size of a large dinner plate, run about $15, while a build-your-own option starts at $12.
Owner Luca Varuni sources many ingredients from Italy, from San Marzano tomatoes to Mozzarella di Bufala. You can try your hand picking out ingredients for a build-your-own pie, but the kitchen has 10 selections, including several white pizza options, that make balanced combinations of the kitchen’s best ingredients.
Minuses: There are a couple of salads on the menu, including the Varuni Salad with sweet candied pecans and prosciutto, but they’re the sort of forgettable greenery that you buy only because you’re stuck in a pizzeria.
Best pick: The Bastardo, with fresh mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, pepperoni, nduja sausage, pecorino Romano and basil.
Insider tip: Take advantage of the extraordinary draft beer list offered by the Hop City craft beer bar at Krog. Few pizzerias can offer the experience of washing down a slice with a sip of the latest, limited-release Saison or Berliner Weisse that Hop City is sure to have on tap.
99 Krog St., Atlanta. 404-5005550, varuni.us.