GREENS & GRAVY

Look for the latest restaurant review every Friday in our Go Guide section.

At Greens & Gravy, you can get fried catfish on roasted sweet-potato grits, Garlicky Turnip Green Alfredo, and short ribs braised in a hearty pour of Malbec. Chef Darius Williams even riffs on the food-on-astick trend, skewering fried chicken and biscuits and sending them out with country gravy for dunkin’.

If you want a fresh salad, if your diet is gluten- or animal-free, or if you crave fruits and veggies that taste like nature intended them, you’ll be out of luck here.

Skip the fried pickles, insipid bread-and-butter spears with a semolina crust and chive-ranch dipping sauce. Batons of crispy fried okra are a better choice.

The “whole baby fried catfish” with grits piqued my interest. Though hardly fingerlings, the two medium-size fish were perfectly cooked, yet the dish was tarted up with smoked Meyer-lemon vinaigrette. I had little use for the “Pinot Grigio cream with bacon and herbs” that came on the side.

Macaroni and cheese topped with chunks of fried lobster and bacon crumbles sounded divine, but the lobster was a tad chewy and heavily seasoned with spices. Plain mac and cheese is delicious, however.

Stick with the fried chicken. The crackly-skinned bird, drizzled with lemon pepper honey, is some of the best in town.

WENDELL BROCK CONTRIBUTED BY The Lemon Pepper Honey Fried Chicken at Greens & Gravy in Westview is some of the city’s best fried bird.