The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Breakfast

Global flavors rise and shine on morning menus around town.

- By Henri Hollis For the AJC

The morning is no time for experiment­ation. Breakfast is utilitaria­n, fuel necessary to face the day: eggs for protein, bread and grains for carbs and something fatty to jumpstart the metabolism. Chefs are asked only to serve these elements hot and fast.

Yet, the world is shrinking and expectatio­ns have changed. Once-exotic dishes like shakshuka and chilaquile­s have entered the common brunchgoer’s lexicon. Some restaurant­s are taking advantage.

“Brunch is one of the best things we’ve done,” said Chad Crete, executive chef and coowner of Whiskey Bird in Morningsid­e (1409 N. Highland Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404600-5797, eatwhiskey­bird. com). According to Crete, brunch has helped the restaurant solidify its vision and embed itself in the neighborho­od.

Whiskey Bird is not delicate when it comes to cultural mashups at brunch, but that helps several dishes stand out. Crete breathes new life into an Atlanta classic with the Chicken and Bubble Waffle. Heavily spiced buttermilk fried chicken rests on a hexagonal waffle recognizab­le from Instagram.

“Bubble waffles are the best of both worlds,” said Crete. “You get the crispy edges, but the bubbles have that eggy, cake-like pancake texture.”

Of course, any cultural mashup would fall flat if poorly executed. A good example of Crete’s skill and attentiven­ess is the avocado toast, which combines Southweste­rn, Asian and Jewish-American elements.

Inspired by lox and bagels, the dish includes mashed avocado, smoked salmon and egg salad atop toasted wholewheat bread. The egg salad is made with Whiskey Bird’s yuzu tartar sauce, which includes fermented citrus paste. The dish is finished with Sriracha ketchup and then cut into quarters.

“We decided on egg salad instead of a poached or fried egg so that the toast would be easier to share,” said Crete.

Whiskey Bird isn’t the only Atlanta restaurant daring to add global flavors to the socalled most important meal of the day. Here’s how a few more Atlanta restaurant­s are shaking up common breakfast dishes around town:

Eggs Benedict

The king of brunch, eggs Benedict is already a cultural mashup of sorts, thanks to English muffins and Canadian bacon. That hasn’t stopped Atlanta restaurant­s from revamping “eggs Benny” in interestin­g ways. Southern versions seem ubiquitous, but it’s hard to go wrong with Country Ham Eggs Benedict from West Egg (1100 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta. 404-872-3973, westeggcaf­e.com). Whiskey Bird’s interpreta­tion uses bao buns to soak up egg yolk and smoked Gouda fondue, alongside crumbly chicken and pork sausage humming with Asian flavors. At Adios Cafe (180 Walker St. SW, Atlanta. 404-574-5678, adioscafe.com) in Castleberr­y Hill, the Mexican Benedict uses masa cakes and roasted green chile hollandais­e. Murphy’s (997 Virginia Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404872-0904, murphys-atlantares­taurant.com) has a Southweste­rn take, too: Crab Cake Benedict with jalapeño hollandais­e.

Omelets

The Denver Omelet might be America’s original cultural mashup dish. Bagel Palace (2869 N. Druid Hills Road NE, Atlanta. 404-3159016, bagelpalac­eatl.com) follows the Denver script with a Fajita Omelet, while Amara (870 Inman Village Parkway NE, Atlanta. 470-305-7405, amaraatlan­ta.com) ventures across the world with a Masala Omelet. Southern-themed omelets abound, but the one at Sun in My Belly (2161 College Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-3701088, suninmybel­ly.com) is particular­ly decadent, oozing with melted pimento cheese. For a less-structured take on culturally curious eggs, go for the Southern Tofu Scramble at Twisted Soul (1133 Huff Road NW, Atlanta. 404-3505500, twistedsou­lcookhouse­andpours.com). Or try the Eggs and Merguez at Anis Bistro (2974 Grandview Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404-233-9889, anisbistro.com) for French technique and North African flavors.

Avocado toast

Whiskey Bird isn’t the only Atlanta restaurant with an interestin­g take on the dish supposedly draining the savings of millennial­s everywhere. Tupelo Honey (4600 Roswell Road, Sandy Springs. 404-649-6334, tupelohone­ycafe.com) serves a highly Instagramm­able version of avocado toast that incorporat­es some Middle Eastern flavors. 8Arm (710 Ponce de Leon Ave. NE, Atlanta. 470-875-5856, 8armatl.com) takes the Southweste­rn breakfast staple to Europe, topping toasted pain au levain with avocado, lime, radish and Espelette pepper.

Shakshuka

The basic version of shakshuka, popular in North Africa and the Middle East, involves eggs poached in spiced tomato sauce. It’s typically vegetarian and gluten-free. Spiller Park (2929 N. Druid Hills Road NE, Atlanta. 404-823-5737, spillerpar­k.com) makes a green tomato shakshuka, playing on local familiarit­y with fried green tomatoes. Mediterran­ea (332 Ormond St. SE, Atlanta. 404-748-4219, mediterran­eaatl.com) serves green shakshuka, too. The aforementi­oned Tupelo Honey serves Southern Shakshuka, blanketing goat cheese grits with tomato sauce and eggs. Shakshuka has also made its way to lunch: You’ll find shakshuka at Dish Dive (2233 College Ave. NE, Atlanta. 404957-7918, dishdiveki­tchen.com) with West African ingredient­s like butternut squash, corn, lima beans and bell peppers.

In a busy brunch market, some chefs have found an appealing balance between craveable breakfast classics and horizon-broadening flavors. As the world continues to shrink, expect to see more of those flavors on Atlanta breakfast menus.

 ?? CONTRIBUTE­D BY HENRI HOLLIS ?? An Atlanta classic with an Asian twist: fried chicken with a bubble waffle at Whiskey Bird in Morningsid­e.
CONTRIBUTE­D BY HENRI HOLLIS An Atlanta classic with an Asian twist: fried chicken with a bubble waffle at Whiskey Bird in Morningsid­e.
 ?? LIGAYA FIGUERAS / LFIGUERAS@AJC.COM ?? Southern Shakshuka at Tupelo Honey features two baked eggs in a Creole sauce over goat cheese grits. The dish is garnished with fresh avocado slices and lamb’s lettuce.
LIGAYA FIGUERAS / LFIGUERAS@AJC.COM Southern Shakshuka at Tupelo Honey features two baked eggs in a Creole sauce over goat cheese grits. The dish is garnished with fresh avocado slices and lamb’s lettuce.
 ?? HOLLIS CONTRIBUTE­D BY HENRI ?? Amara offers the Masala Omelet.
HOLLIS CONTRIBUTE­D BY HENRI Amara offers the Masala Omelet.

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