MEMPHIS-STYLE BUTTER ROLLS

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Unwrap one stick of butter, set on a plate, place on the counter near the heating oven, and let come to room temperature.

Meanwhile, cut the second stick of butter into small cubes, place in a small bowl, and freeze for 10 minutes. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour and 2 tablespoons of the sugar with the baking powder, salt and baking soda. Add the chilled cubed butter and toss to coat in the flour. Use your fingers to pinch and rub the butter into the flour mixture to form a crumbly meal. Add the buttermilk and stir gently until no dry spots of flour remain.

Turn the dough out onto a well-floured counter. Flour the top of the dough and roll into a rectangle that measures about 12 by 18 inches. Gently spread the softened butter across the surface of the dough. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons sugar and sprinkle with cinnamon, if desired. Starting from one of the longer sides, roll the dough up as you would a jelly roll. Use a sharp knife or a bench scraper to cut the dough roll into 12 even slices.

Place the rolls, cut side-up, in a 9- by 13-inch baking dish.

In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, remaining ⅔ cup sugar and vanilla. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat.

Pour the sauce into the baking dish around the rolls. Bake until risen and golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes. Let cool at least until the sauce stops bubbling. Serve the rolls warm, drizzled with the sauce. Serves 12.

WILLIAMS/SOUTHERN KITCHEN KATE 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for the counter 1/4 cup plus ⅔ cup sugar, divided 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1 cup buttermilk, chilled Ground cinnamon...