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A trick picked up from cookbook author Stella Parks, toasting sugar can be as easy as popping it in a toaster oven. It results in a deeper, less sweet flavor that matches the subtle complexity of salted butter and renders additional salt unnecessary.

The dough needs to be refrigerated for at least 3 hours, and up to 2 days. It can also be frozen for up to 1 month.

1 1/2 cups sugar

3 1/4 cups sifted all-purpose flour (3 cups plus 1 tablespoon allpurpose flour, sifted), plus more for the work surface

2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder 12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) salted butter, slightly softened (left at room temperature for up to an hour)

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 tablespoon whole milk Coarse raw sugar such as Demerara or turbinado, for sprinkling

To toast the sugar, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the sugar evenly across the surface of a heavy 10- to 12-inch skillet (not cast-iron). Transfer to the oven; bake (middle rack) for 25 to 30 minutes or until the sugar takes on the barest of color (a pale, wheatlike hue); watch closely to make sure the sugar doesn’t start to melt. Alternatively, you can do this in a toaster oven, placing the sugar on an aluminumlined toaster-oven tray. Immediately transfer the sugar to a mixing bowl and let it cool.

Sift the flour and baking powder together into a medium bowl.

Beat the butter in the bowl of a stand mixer or with a handheld electric mixer on medium-high speed, until light and fluffy. Add the vanilla extract and toasted sugar and beat well. Beat the eggs in one at a time, followed by the milk. Stop to scrape down the bowl. On low speed, gradually add the sifted dry ingredients to incorporate, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Do not overbeat.

Divide the dough in half, wrapping each portion in wax paper and transferring it to the refrigerator to chill for at least 3 hours (or up to 2 days). If there’s room in your refrigerator, go ahead and roll out the halves of dough between sheets of wax paper and stack on a baking sheet before you refrigerate.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment or silicone liners. Lightly flour a work surface and your rolling pin.

Place one half of the dough on a lightly floured workstation and turn it over so it’s evenly dusted in flour and shape it into a ball. Use the floured rolling pin to roll out the dough so it’s 1/4-inch thick. With a 2-inch round cutter (or the shape of your choice), cut as many cookies as you can, placing them on a baking sheet, 1 1/2 to 2 inches apart. Repeat with the second half of dough. Gather your scrap dough into a mass, rewrap in wax paper and return to the refrigerator to firm up. You can make another batch of cookies with it.

Sprinkle 1/4 teaspoon coarse raw sugar over each cookie. Bake (middle rack) for about 8 minutes, rotating the baking sheets from top to bottom and front to back halfway through. The cookies should have puffed up and their edges should be just on the brink of browning. Transfer them to a wire rack to cool. Serves 44 to 50. Per cookie (based on 50): 80 calories, 1 g protein, 12 g carbohydrates, 3 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 15 mg cholesterol, 25 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 7 g sugar

From cookbook author and food writer Charlotte Druckman.

PHOTO BY DEB LINDSEY FOR THE WASHINGTON POST.