WICKED SUSHI & GRILL

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Wicked Sushi is not all that different from any number of Korean-owned Japanese places that dabble in multiple cultures. The menu is anchored by familiar Japanese standards (tempura, nigiri, noodles) and several pages of bodacious, American-style sushi rolls. Buried in the menu copy are a couple of Korean touches aimed at lovers of bulgogi (marinated grilled beef ) and gochujang (fiery red chile sauce).

The bulgogi dinner comes with a house salad, one of the least appealing cups of miso soup I’ve tasted, fried rice and a few pieces of veggie tempura. It’s the sort of dish that will fill you up on the cheap, but, given the bounty of good Korean in Atlanta, it would be silly to go out of your way for it.

Another dish intended to have Korean flair is the spicy chirashi don. When made in traditional Japanese fashion, the bowl is an artful arrangement of pristine sashimi slices on a mound of rice. Here, a scoop of chopped white fish mixed with prickly gochujang sauce is served on a bed of rice, iceberg lettuce and shaved daikon. The entire composition is squirted with tons more gochujang. It comes in a dramatic, oversize salad bowl.

The verdict? It tasted like a lettuce and rice salad with a smidgen of fish and lots of hot sauce.

Wicked Sushi & Grill. 3200 Woodward Crossing, Buford. 678-765-7499, wicked-sushi-grill. business.site.

WENDELL BROCK