The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Plan trip to Okefenokee Swamp
Explore vast wetlands by boat — cozy cabin is optional.
The Okefenokee Swamp covers more than 400,000 acres. Alligators — at least 12,000 of them — really are everywhere. They sun on the banks, slither in shallow waters, and seemingly unfazed by us in our pontoon boat, they stare at us, their eyes glowing in the bright sun.
But these vast wetlands offer so much more than alligators.
One of the Seven Natural Wonders of Georgia, the Okefenokee Swamp, near the border with Florida, is protected as a National Wildlife Refuge, which means the Stephen C. Foster State Park is very remote. In 2016, the park was officially recognized as one of the best places in the country to see the night sky.
My family and I recently vacationed at Stephen C. Foster State Park. This park is a primary entrance to the Okefenokee Swamp. We stayed at the Suwannee River Eco-Lodge, a comfortable place with cozy cabins, located 18 miles from the state park. It is also managed by the state park. (There are on-site cottages at Stephen C. Foster, but they were booked by the time we planned our trip.)
From the moment we arrived,
my family and I were awestruck. Spanish moss-laced trees swayed in the breeze. A carpet of yellow bonnet lilies floated on top on the glossy dark waters of this refuge, home not only to alligators but also turtles, black bears, herons and many other creatures. At night, we heard the barred owls hooting deep within the forest.
The one noise missing was the beep beep of mobile devices. Cellphone service was spotty at best, and honestly, I was delighted by a break from the digital world.
It’s a fascinating place to explore, and not only during daylight hours. The swamp’s evenings dazzle with sunsets, moon
rises and spectacular night skies full of stars.
The Native Americans aptly called the swamp the “land of trembling earth” because the swamp floor trembles when you step on the unstable peat deposits.
“People have very negative associations when they think about a swamp. They think they are dark, dirty and maybe full of sickness,” said Joshua Snead, interpretive ranger at Stephen C. Foster State Park. “It’s neat to see that mentality change when people visit and see what a special place this is.”
In 2016, the International DarkSky Association, a group that aims to protect against nighttime light pollution, designated Stephen C. Foster State Park in the Okefenokee Swamp as Georgia’s first Goldtier International Dark Sky Park (other such places include Big Bend and Death Valley).
Park staff removed 13 streetlights and switched many bulbs to light-emitting diodes (LED). They worked with a local power company to install state-of-theart lighting that casts downward rather than outward. Staff even retrofitted outdoor lighting on park cabins to be motion-activated.
If the sky is clear, look up to see one of the darkest and most impressive displays of stars in the Southeast. We were lucky during our visit: The Milky Way stretched across the horizon in a glowing arc; Venus and Mars were also bright.
Toting our flashlights, we saw orange spots glowing in the water. Those were alligators’ eyes.
Important note about alligators: Georgia State Parks said there have been no reported attacks since the swamp became pro-
tected as a National Wildlife Refuge in 1937. Alligators generally don’t bother humans, but it’s important that people do not feed or provoke alligators. When we were boating near an alligator, they slipped away under the water whenever we got close.
Touring the Okefenokee Swamp
Private tours by motor boat, canoe or kayak are offered for a variety of destinations and time lengths. Many are around $20 for adults; $15 per child.
Destinations include the following:
Billy’s Lake
Cruise the deepest section of the Okefenokee and the headwaters of the historic Suwannee River on Billy’s Lake.
Minnie’s Run
A trip up Minnie’s Run gets you up close and personal with the swamp. This narrow, natural waterway cuts through a dense forest of towering pine and bald cypress. Glide past beautiful flowers like the fragrant waterlily and keep an eye out for baby alligators sunning themselves on fallen logs.
Minnie’s Lake
After a trip up Minnie’s Run, emerge onto Minnie’s Lake, where cypress trees surround you, 4 miles into the swamp. Enjoy a picnic on a floating platform on the lake.
Billy’s Island
By the late 1800s, around the 1870s, Dan Lee built a house on the island, and he and his family lived off the land for decades. Considered “swampers,” the family farmed on the island, growing corn, beans, sugar cane and potatoes. They also raised livestock but also hunted in the swamp. They were the only people living there for many years.
Though fire and the Civilian Conservation Corps removed most evidence of human activity on the island, visitors can still see the Lee family cemetery, rusty remnants of a logging camp, and an Indian mound while walking a short trail through what remains of the site.
Big Water
A trip to Big Water is more than just a boat ride. This trip is a true adventure 10 miles into the swamp. This tour will take you deep into the
interior of the swamp. This will be a six-hour-plus trip depending on conditions.
Where to stay at Stephen C. Foster Park:
Because the park is 18 miles from the closest town of Fargo, Ga., most visitors stay overnight in the park’s cabins or campground. Prices vary; cottages are about $150 per night.
Suwannee River EcoLodge, a comfortable place to stay with cabins, located 18 miles from Stephen C. Foster State Park, is another good option. The eco-lodge ranges from $85 to $125. Cottages can fill up months in advance, so try to plan your trip early, even several months ahead of time.
To learn more about the park and its programs, visit GeorgiaStateParks.org/stephencfoster or call 912-6375274. For overnight reservations, call 1-800-864-7275.