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“Calling this dish BBQ only makes sense in New Orleans — there’s nothing barbecued about it, but that’s its name here,” writes chef Tenney Flynn in his new cookbook,“The Deep End of Flavor.”At his New Orleans restaurant, Fins, he serves the shrimp over grits enriched with goat cheese (find his Goat Cheese Grits recipe online at ajc.com/food), along with bread for dipping. The dish can also be served atop rice.“The flavors are big, and the aroma will have everyone heading to the kitchen,” Flynn says.

FOR THE BBQ BUTTER

4 Tablespoons plus 4 sticks (1 pound)

salted butter, softened, divided 6 Tablespoons minced shallots 6 Tablespoons minced garlic 2 Tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon

juice

1 Tablespoon finely chopped fresh

rosemary

1 Tablespoon paprika

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt

1 ½ teaspoons freshly ground black

pepper

Pinch of cayenne pepper

FOR THE SHRIMP

2 pounds (16–20 count or larger) wildcaught American shrimp, peeled and deveined

2 teaspoons Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Magic Seasoning Blends Shrimp Magic (see note) or Home Creole Seasoning (recipe follows) 2 Tablespoons olive or canola oil 2 Tablespoons salted butter

½ cup amber beer, plus more, as

needed (Flynn uses Abita)

½ recipe BBQ Butter

For serving: warm grits, chopped

parsley and hot, crusty bread

To make the BBQ butter: Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a small sauté pan on medium-low. Add the shallots and garlic; sauté until soft but not browned. A lid helps this process so they steam a little while cooking. Spread this mixture out on a plate and refrigerate.

Place the remaining 4 sticks butter in the bowl of an electric mixer and whip until light and fluffy. (You can do this with a wooden spoon if you soften the butter to room temperature first.)

Reduce the mixer speed to low and add lemon juice, rosemary, paprika, thyme, Worcestershire sauce, salt, black pepper, and cayenne, along with the cooled shallot mixture. Whip on high for another minute. Divide mixture in half, cutting half of it into chunks; set aside. Save the other half of mixture for later use by rolling it into a 2-inch-diameter log in waxed paper or plastic wrap. Refrigerate or label, date, and freeze up to 6 months.

To make the shrimp: Season the shrimp lightly with the Shrimp Magic or Home Creole seasoning. Set a large, heavy skillet or sauté pan on medium-high heat. When hot, add the oil, then the butter. When the butter foams, add the seasoned shrimp and sauté quickly for 2 minutes. Turn and continue cooking for 1 minute.

Add the beer and reduce by half. Turn down the heat to medium-low. Make sure there is enough reduced liquid to keep the temperature at a simmer. If it’s all cooked off, the heat will rise quickly and the compound butter will break when you stir it in.

Whisk all the chunks of BBQ butter into the simmering beer and stir until the mixture has a creamy consistency.

To serve: Put a big scoop of grits in the center of large warmed bowls, and divide the shrimp and sauce equally on top. Garnish with parsley, serve with bread. Serves 4.

Per serving: 845 calories (percent of calories from fat, 73), 47 grams protein, 8 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 68 grams fat (37 grams saturated), 500 milligrams cholesterol, 1,392 milligrams sodium.

Note: Shrimp Magic Seasoning is sold at Walmart and online at magicseasoningblends.com.

FOOD STYLING BY TENNEY FLYNN; CHRIS HUNT PHOTOGRAPHY Shrimp Sauteed in BBQ Butter.