Set green fashion goals

Growing number of designers, scientists join forces to green wardrobes.

Buying clothes is easier than ever, but what you put in your shopping cart today can impact the planet for seasons to come. Fortunately, a grow- ing number of designers and scientists are joining forces to green up your wardrobe. Learn how to outfit yourself more mindfully, and support brands that are as eco-conscious as they are cool.

When it comes to finding that new favorite dress — or perfect pair of jeans — fit and style are usually the key metrics to making a purchase. However, where and how items are manufactured matter more than ever. The average global consumer bought 60% more clothing in 2014 than in 2000, and kept each garment about half as long. Plus, we sent threefifths of these purchases (many of them made from petroleum-based polyester, nylon and acrylic — in other words, plastic — per U.K.-and-China-based consultancy group Tecnon OrbiChem) to a landfill or incinerator within a few years of being made. There are painful realities on the production end, too: chemical fertilizers used to grow cotton, rainforest trees pulped to create rayon fabric, coal burned to power garment factories and fuel burned to ship garments across the world to our doors. All told, the fashion industry is responsible for an estimated 8% of global carbon emissions.

Stylish strategies

You don’t need a Ph.D. to help the cause. Simply shop smartly, and hold businesses accountable.

1. Think fewer and better. “It’s not about never buying anything again,” says Bédat, who launched the New Standard Institute, a New York City-based information platform and advocacy group focused on greening the apparel business. “It’s an invitation to purchase only things you really love.” Use EcoAge’s #30wears rule: Before pulling out your credit card, “ask yourself if you are going to wear it at least 30 times,” Vocking says. “You will be surprised how many times the answer is no.” Invest in high-quality, long-lasting pieces. Be a clothing mender (not a tosser), and when you need a refresh, consider vintage and secondhand designer finds (they abound on sites like The RealReal and ThredUp), or try a service like Rent the Runway. It isn’t just for weddings and proms; you can choose an Ulla Johnson dress or Loeffler Randall handbag and rock it for a whole season.

2. Seek out green companies. And “beware of gimmicks,” warns Linda Greer, the senior global fellow at the Institute for Public and Environmental Affairs. (Installing LED bulbs in the corporate offices and doing a oneoff capsule collection isn’t enough.) Look for ones that integrate sustainable fabrics, like recycled polyester or organic cotton, into all their collections; are certified free of toxic chemicals by Bluesign; use recycled or compostable packaging; and invest in making their factories more energy— and waterefficient. A great resource: the Good on You website or app, which rates companies on a number of criteria, including their impact on the environment (goodonyou.eco).

3. Lobby your favorite labels. If a brand you love isn’t up to speed, tweet, direct-message or email the company asking for change. Yes, your voice can really get results. Or make it a group effort: The New Standard Institute has created a petition that calls on businesses to be transparent about their supply chain, set targets and report on their progress to the public. Join the movement at newstandardinstitute.org/sign-up.

Companies that care

These brands are making big strides.

Allbirds sources the greenest materials available for its sneakers, including natural merino wool and laces made from recycled bottles. When it couldn’t find an eco EVA (the rubberlike material in the soles), it invented the first carbon-negative version, SweetFoam, made from sustainably sourced sugar cane. This spring, the brand announced it has imposed a carbon tax on itself by contributing to decarbonization projects.

Amour Vert plants a tree with every T-shirt purchase (220,000 to date). Besides using fabrics like Modal (from sustainably harvested beechwood); organic cotton; Tencel (from sustainably harvested eucalyptus trees); and certified-nontoxic mulberry silk, the San Francisco company produces 97% of its chic, feminine pieces locally in California.

Eileen Fisher is on a personal mission to tackle waste in the industry by collecting and then recycling, upcycling and reselling her timeless designs, which are made from sustainable organic cotton, linen or cruelty-free wool, and dyed with certified-nontoxic dyes. Earlier this year, the brand launched Supporting Women in Environmental Justice, which will award $200,000 annually to nonprofits working for women’s rights and the planet.

Levi Strauss & Co. met its first series of climate goals two years ahead of schedule, so it’s set even more ambitious new ones: a 90% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions and 100% renewable energy in its own facilities by 2025. To cut those emissions by 40% across its entire global supply chain, the company is working with 42 of its factories and the International Finance Corp.’s Partnership for Cleaner Textiles program, which provides expert advice and low-cost financing for sustainable equipment and upgrades.

Mara Hoffman recently switched her entire womenswear collection to green fabrics — organic cotton, linen, hemp and Tencel. Her swimsuits, which are made from recycled water bottles and fishing nets, get mailed to customers in bio-based, compostable packaging. She’s also partnered with the Renewal Workshop to repair and resell damaged or worn-out garments that customers might otherwise toss.

Patagonia has not only donated more than $100 million to environmental causes; it works with its international suppliers to help them switch to and invest in renewable energy, and funds carbon-capture projects, like global reforestation, to offset the rest of its footprint. By this fall, 69% of its materials by weight will be from recycled fibers (such as polyester and wool). You can also buy Patagonia products secondhand, or get yours repaired as needed through its Worn Wear program.

Stella McCartney, whose luxury fashion label has been leather- and fur-free since launching in 2001, has partnered with startups to experiment with lab-grown “silk” and “leather,” as well as mushroom-based “leather.” Her program Stella Cares Green financially supports nonprofits working to protect biodiversity, spearhead material innovation, share their research with individuals and fashion businesses, and push government policy forward.

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