How to make a no-stress Thanksgiving gravy

Whoever coined the phrase “It’s all gravy” really knew what they were talking about. Sure, the other parts of many of our Thanksgiving meals — the turkey, the pies, the rolls - are worth singing about. But I’ve learned that the gravy can easily turn into the stealth star of the show.

It took me a while to come to that realization, as for most of my life there was either no gravy or only the jarred stuff. I just regret that I did not start making it sooner.

I’ll be the first to admit that the process can be a bit anxiety-inducing, especially if you’re juggling many other dishes. But I’m here to help explain things. Here are my tips, plus great advice from chef Marjorie Meek-Bradley of Washington’s St. Anselm restaurant.

Work ahead. Face it, you’re going to be doing enough on the big day itself. Why rush the gravy? Gravy, or a gravy base, can typically be refrigerated up to a week in advance. If you do a base, all you have to do is stir in turkey drippings as it reheats over low heat on the stove top. If you take the gravy from start to finish before Thanksgiving, just reheat and serve.

Roux who? It sounds like a fancy French thing that only chefs can do. In reality, it’s just a mix of fat (often butter) and flour that helps thicken sauces, including gravy, or dishes such as gumbo. The fat and flour are added in equal, or very close to equal, amounts. A few things to keep in mind: You want the flour and butter to form a completely smooth paste. Some recipes will have you add the flour all at once, others gradually. Either way, make sure the mixture is lump-free and completely combined.

The darker the roux, the more flavor it has, but also the less it will thicken, Meek-Bradley says. A few minutes, until the roux is blond or golden, will typically suffice for gravy. The former “Top Chef ” contestant takes hers to an amber color, so there’s some wiggle room depending on your personal preference and how toasted or nutty you want the flavor to be. Whisking constantly will ensure that the roux is smooth and won’t burn. It can scorch in a second, so don’t leave it unattended. If you burn it, you haven’t lost much. Just start again.

If you finish your gravy and it’s too thin, Meek-Bradley suggests adding a “raw roux.” Whisk equal amounts of butter and flour — kneaded together, this paste is what the French call beurre manie - into the gravy to thicken it.

Ensure you have enough drippings. Maybe you want to make the gravy completely ahead of time. Or perhaps you’re worried your small turkey breast won’t give you enough drippings. Call it crazy, but maybe you don’t even plan on serving turkey yet you still want gravy. Easy enough. Now’s the time of year when it’s no problem to procure turkey drumsticks, wings and necks for roasting. Bonus: Those parts are a heck of a lot cheaper than a whole bird or breast. Bonus bonus: In addition to the drippings for gravy, you get meat that can be used in such dishes as soups and pot pies, as well as bones you can use to make stock. (Try roasting the bones after you pull the meat off to get even more flavor in that stock.)

To get 1/2 cup of defatted drippings, I roasted six turkey legs with some carrots, celery and garlic, loosely inspired by a recipe from Saveur that starts the meat in a 450-degree oven that’s then knocked back to 400 degrees. Add your choice of spices and drizzle with olive oil, and you’ll be set.

Defatting the drippings. Too much fat can cause the gravy to separate, as MeekBradley has learned from experience. So definitely get the fat out of your drippings. A fat separator can do the trick quickly, or you can let the fat rise to the top and carefully skim it off with a spoon.

Don’t worry about turkey stock. So many recipes call for turkey stock, which is nice if you’ve thought ahead to make it. But if all you can get your hands on is chicken stock, you’ll be fine. Homemade is nice, yes. If you can only do so much, and fromscratch stock is not in the cards (me, most years), grab a carton of unsalted chicken stock from the store. Your gravy will still shine.