The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Rock Steady is flavor-filled trip to Caribbean
Owners merge the things they love about the islands — the food and the music.
When I go out, I’m not looking to whoop it up like I did in my 20s when my brother played in a ska band. Oh, I still enjoy ska, reggae, and the genre that bridges the two, rocksteady, which emerged in Jamaica in the mid-1960s. But now I prefer sleeping over late-night skanking on a dance floor. And when I dine, I want a sturdy chair to support my back. A plump cushion for my tooshie is even better. I don’t want to shout over loud music and unfamiliar tunes. You, too?
Then come here and sit down next to me at this corner table at Rock Steady in West Midtown. I’ll scoot over on this banquette so you can be comfy, too. It’s a great spot to watch all the beautiful people. That’s what the graceful server called me. I’m pretty sure they say that to all the guests, but you have to admit, it’s a nice thing to say. And people do dress for the occasion here.
This place used to be Figo Pasta, but as you can tell by all the African textiles, the artwork, the glowing light fixtures that look like spiny sea urchins bobbing in the water, it’s an upscale Caribbean spot.
It’s a venture from Joe Russo and Jacob Thomas. They both have an affinity for all things Caribbean. Russo lived in Jamaica for a spell, and Thomas has Haitian family ties. Rock Steady, Thomas told me, was their way of merging the elements they love about the islands — the food, the music. You’ll love this playlist.
Red red wine, you make me feel so fine …
Actually, don’t get the wine here. There’s not much of a selection. The cocktails are good, though. Balanced. A fair amount of them feature rum, as you’d expect. Get the Passa Passa. It’s made with a clever kickedup jerk simple syrup. Even a drink without booze is good; Natural Mystic is this colorful concoction of tropical fruit juices like pineapple and passion fruit over crushed ice. You’ll want to stir it up.
Come on baby, stir it up.
Here, help yourself to any of these appetizers.
Rip off a piece of that folded roti and use it to scoop up some dal. The house-made flatbread isn’t as flaky as you might expect. It doesn’t have that ripped shirt look that lends the dish its name, Buss Up Shut. Still, it’s a filling starter.
There’s only one yucca fry left. There were only four wedges to start with, though. Yeah, that is a bit odd, especially compared to the healthy portions of everything else.
Pop one of those Haitian akra in your mouth. Yes, the hush puppies. They’re made from taro root. Nicely fried, huh? They aren’t oily, the interior is moist. Go ahead, have another.
You like spicy, right? You’re going to love the pikliz. The Scotch bonnet peppers give the pickled cabbage and carrots quite the punch. This Haitian relish goes hand in hand with griot, chunks of pork shoulder marinated in citrus and chiles, then fried. But the griot here is rather dry.
The snapper ceviche is a striking presentation and the cassava chips on top are crispy and airy, but such large chunks of fish could benefit from more citrus curing time.
Here come the entrees. I think you’ll agree that the execution on some of these proteins — the catch of the day (striped sea bass), the jerk chicken — is far superior to the veggies that round out the plates. The Brussels sprouts and carrots are so undercooked I can hardly stab a knife through them. The Jamaican rice and peas is a filling side with both these mains, though. And the coconut milk. It’s so aromatic. Mm. Close your eyes and smell it.
Hey! Quit eating all the oxtail pappardelle! I know the meat is nicely browned. Yes, it’s a lovely, rich, winter dish, but I want you to try the suya shrimp and grits.
Suya is a smoky peanutbased spice blend from Nigeria. It’s usually used as a rub for grilled meats, but Chef Lucke — that’s the name that exec chef Christian Bell goes by. And it’s pronounced “lucky,” by the way — works suya into a sauce over grilled shrimp and toothsome grits. I do wish the sauce was thinner, rather than so pasty, but when you think about the culinary landscape of the Caribbean islands, it’s such a narrative of flavors. This one adds to that story as it weaves a West African staple ingredient like peanuts into an iconic Southern plate.
Did you save room for dessert? Come on. At least take one bite of this moist rum cake. When they realized Brianna Riddock had a knack for sweets, they plucked her off the line and anointed her pastry chef. She’s one to watch.
What? You’re ordering another round?!
I agree with you: The vibes are good here. The food, the drink, the music — it’s quite the Caribbean culture trip. But, friend, it is past my bedtime. As rocksteady all-star Bob Andy would sing, I’ve got to go back home.
If you’re sticking around for the D J, though, that fruity tequila drink Top Rankin’ will get you skankin’.