The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

ACROSS THE COUNTRY, FOOD BANKS ARE OVERRUN Demand from the suddenly unemployed soars as donations, volunteers are sharply curtailed by impact of the coronaviru­s.

- Nicholas Kulish

In Omaha, Nebraska, a food pantry that typically serves as few as 100 people saw 900 show up on a single day.

In Jonesboro, Arkansas, after a powerful tornado struck, a food bank received less than half the donations it expected because nervous families held onto what they had.

And in Washington state and Louisiana, the National Guard has been called in to help pack food boxes and ensure that the distributi­ons run smoothly.

Demand is rising

Demand for food assistance is rising at an unpreceden­ted rate, just as the nation’s food banks are being struck by shortages of both donated food and volunteer workers.

Uniformed guardsmen help “take the edge off ” at increasing­ly tense distributi­ons of boxes filled with cans of chicken noodle soup, tuna fish, and pork and beans, said Mike Manning, chief executive at the Greater Baton Rouge Food Bank. “Their presence provides safety for us during distributi­ons,” he added.

Manning, who has worked at the food bank for 16 years, including through Hurricane Katrina, said that he has never witnessed such a combinatio­n of need, scarcity and anxiety. “‘Crazy’ pretty much sums it up,” he said.

“I’ve never seen anything like it,” said Stacy Dean, vice president for food assistance policy at the Center on Budget and Policy Priorities, a left-leaning research organizati­on in Washington, D.C. She has studied food security for more than a quarter-century. “People love the phrase ‘the perfect storm,’” she added, “but nothing is built for this.”

Feeding America, the nation’s largest network of food banks, with more than 200 affiliates, has projected a $1.4 billion shortfall in the next six months alone. Last week, Jeff Bezos, the founder of Amazon, announced that he was donating $100 million to the group — the largest single donation in its history but still less than one-tenth of what it needs.

The coronaviru­s is everywhere in America, and so is the hunger. More than 1 million people have viewed drone footage of a miles-long line of cars waiting for food last week along a bend in the Monongahel­a River leading to the Greater Pittsburgh Community Food Bank.

A spokeswoma­n for the organizati­on, Beth Burrell, said that 800 cars were served that day. Another distributi­on this week drew even more.

‘An experience I will never forget’

Tini Mason, 44, was in one of those cars, making his first-ever trip to a food bank. “We have to stretch every can, every package, everything that we have, because we don’t know what’s around the corner,” he said in a telephone interview.

Mason lost his job as a cook shortly before the outbreak took hold. The career office where he had been looking for work has closed its doors, and he is still waiting for his unemployme­nt benefits to come through. His partner, Crystal Stewart, 49, lost her job at a Residence Inn by Marriott, then briefly found work at a supermarke­t. But she developed a cough and was forced to isolate while awaiting the results of a swab test. (Her test has since come back negative.)

Mason described the sight of mile after mile of drivers seeking food as “an eye-opener, mind-blowing, an experience I will never forget.” He and Stewart said they honked their horn as a gesture of appreciati­on for volunteers, then drove home and shared eggs and fruit with neighbors who do not own cars.

“If I don’t have to worry about food, I can worry about clothes, how I’m going to pay the rent, how I’m going to pay the car note,” Stewart said.

Close to 10 million Americans reported losing their jobs in the second half of March. The true number of newly unemployed is almost certainly higher, and many have little or no buffer against the sudden loss in income. Even before the current economic crisis, the Federal Reserve found that 4 in 10 American adults did not have the savings or other resources to cover an unexpected $400 expense.

While Congress passed a sweeping economic recovery package last month that promised payments of up to $1,200 to most American adults, it remains unclear when the funds will arrive.

Adding to the problem, school closings across the country mean that many families who relied on free or subsidized school breakfasts and lunches to keep their children fed are facing even greater need.

A nearly tenfold rise in food cost

At exactly the moment that more Americans find themselves turning to food charities, the charities are facing shortages of their own. They rely on a volunteer labor force, one that skews heavily toward retirees. Across the country, older volunteers are sheltering at home for their own health and safety — sometimes by choice and sometimes at the government’s direction.

Perhaps more alarmingly, many of the organizati­ons that typically donate large volumes of food have themselves shut down. Restaurant­s, hotels and casinos have closed across the country. And grocery stores, which ordinarily share unsold inventory that is approachin­g its best-by date, have less to donate because their worried customers have been stripping so many shelves bare.

“When Americans began stocking up on toilet paper, pasta, dried beans and anything else they could get their hands on, supermarke­ts no longer had that excess, nor the time, to do the kind of shelf sweeps to check what they could give,” said Janet Poppendiec­k, an expert on poverty and food assistance. She is also the author of “Sweet Charity? Emergency Food and the End of Entitlemen­t.”

The result is that food banks are buying what they used to receive for nothing.

At Food Bank for the Heartland in Omaha, the amount of food donated for March dropped by nearly half. The food bank typically purchases $73,000 of food in a month this time of year but has spent $675,000 in the past four weeks.

In New York City, where more than 19 billion pounds of food are distribute­d under normal circumstan­ces and the virus

poses an enormous test to the system, 49% of respondent­s to a recent Siena College poll in the city said they were concerned about being able to afford food.

‘Hungry people are hungry each and every day’

Christina Wong, director of public policy and advocacy at Northwest Harvest, an independen­t food bank in Seattle, said that the group was using up the food in its warehouse down to what it had secured during a holiday food drive. The food bank’s bulk purchasing operation, used to paying 25 cents on the dollar, is having to compete on the open market with grocery stores and is starting to have to pay full cost.

Her group estimated that Washington state had gone from 800,000 people struggling to put food on the table to 1.6 million since the outbreak began. Before the crisis, Northwest Harvest had tried to create a dignified experience for clients, as close as possible to shopping at a convention­al grocery store, with an emphasis on fresh, local food.

“We’ve reverted to handing out a box of food,” Wong said, with macaroni and cheese, canned chicken and peanut butter in a typical container.

Based in Las Vegas, Three Square Food Bank previously distribute­d food through 180 pantries across Clark County. Since the outbreak — and the sudden closing of nearly all of the city’s gambling and tourism attraction­s — the organizati­on has restructur­ed, with 10 pantries and 21 new drive-thru distributi­on sites.

Larry Scott, Three Square’s chief operating officer, said that the group had expected 200 to 250 cars a day at each drive-thru. They’re getting between 500 to 600 cars instead, with lines up to 4 miles long. “Every day, we distribute everything that we bring to a site,” Scott said.

An initial glut of high-quality food from shuttered casinos is basically gone, Scott said. Now his food bank is burning through an extra $300,000 to $400,000 a week in cash to buy food.

He said that he saw no relief in sight. “What we do today has to be repeated again tomorrow, and the next day, and the next day,” Scott said. “Hungry people are hungry each and every day.”

 ?? DEMETRIUS FREEMAN / NEW YORK TIMES ?? A volunteer helps a client find the food she needs at the Masbia Soup Kitchen in New York City last month. Demand for food assistance is rising at an unpreceden­ted rate, just as the nation’s food banks are being struck by shortages of donated food and volunteer workers.
DEMETRIUS FREEMAN / NEW YORK TIMES A volunteer helps a client find the food she needs at the Masbia Soup Kitchen in New York City last month. Demand for food assistance is rising at an unpreceden­ted rate, just as the nation’s food banks are being struck by shortages of donated food and volunteer workers.

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