The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Ability to pivot helps businesses survive

- Paul Sullivan

Mike Geller spent the better part of a decade tweaking the focus of Mike’s Organic Delivery, which he founded in 2009. Early on, the model was similar to a community-supported agricultur­e program, or CSA, where customers agreed to receive whatever food was in season.

By the third year, the company was up to about 200 deliveries a week: in Fairfield County in Connecticu­t and Westcheste­r County in New York. Access to organic produce was more widespread and customers wanted options other than a preselecte­d basket. So he created an online organic market, to allow people to pick the fruit, vegetables and meat that they wanted.

In 2018, facing stiff competitio­n from Peapod, FreshDirec­t and other online food services, he pivoted yet again, renovating part of the company’s warehouse in Stamford, Connecticu­t, and added a market a year later. Private parties, community events and cooking classes followed.

“It was a challenge to grow,” Geller said. “The business hadn’t reached a level I wanted to get to.”

Then, this March, the stay-at-home orders in New York and Connecticu­t were enacted, and his business changed again. With the massive increase in demand for deliveries and shortly thereafter, pickups, it boomed in a way he never imagined nor was equipped to handle. He went from having 200 to 250 orders a week to 5,000. He also became one of the main outlets for a half-dozen farms that had been selling their meat, breads and produce to highend restaurant­s, which were now closed.

“It’s not that you don’t want to say you’re doing well,” Geller said. “But myself, my whole team, we’re not jumping up and down. We’re just thrilled to be busy, and we’re happy to be helping small farmers.”

The biggest issues for many businesses is what the economy will look like when they reopen. But the companies that are surviving — some, indeed, growing, like Mike’s Organic — are the ones that have pivoted, either within their existing business or to a new line of work, said Wendy Cai-Lee, president and chief executive of Piermont Bank, which lends to small and medium-sized businesses. “The ones who have a single source of revenue have more challenges,” she said. (Geller, of course, began with an advantage, since grocery stores are considered essential businesses.)

Many of the farms and bakeries that Mike’s Organic works with fell into that category: They were focused on restaurant­s that bought large quantities and were predictabl­e customers. Now they have to look to retail outlets to survive.

“We’ve picked up the slack,” Geller said. “We’ve gotten recommenda­tions from our farmers. Our tomato sauce guy told us about this great mushroom guy, who just sold to restaurant­s.”

From consumers, the uptick in interest in Mike’s Organic was intense and immediate. In March, when the stay-athome order began, the company’s website crashed three weeks in a row, something that had never happened in the previous 11 years.

“We had a huge burst of orders in the middle of the week, and we ran out of product,” he said. “Then what happened was people said we can’t get a slot on Amazon or FreshDirec­t.”

Volume is up for deliveries and the market, even though it now skews 70% to deliveries where it had been equal before.

Being able to pivot and sell to companies like Mike’s Organic when the restaurant­s closed has been a lifeline, but it hasn’t been without its complicati­ons.

“On March 13, 90% of our business was restaurant­s, in the city and the Hudson Valley,” said Marc Jaffe, who owns Snowdance Farm in Livingston Manor, New York, which produces beef, pork, chicken and other meat. “Thank God we had some retail or we would not have had a label that was already approved by the USDA.”

While Snowdance did not have to go through the time-consuming process of getting approval to sell its meat to retail customers, it did have to change its production methods. Whereas a restaurant might take 10 whole chickens in a box or 40 pounds of beef, no consumer is likely to buy that much.

Shifting operations to retail for the providers means extra costs that make their businesses more of a break-even operation — though none are complainin­g.

Jaffe said the farm’s sales to Mike’s Organic have increased twentyfold in the past two months, but the farm’s revenue is down. “I can’t exactly quantify it,” Jaffe said. “But my costs are more because they’re cutting everything up and packaging it, and my sales costs are more because of the effort. There’s no normal pattern.”

Tim Topi, the owner of Wave Hill Breads, a bakery based in Norwalk, Connecticu­t, that is ranked one of the top 100 bakeries in America by Food & Wine, lost 60% of his business when restaurant­s closed. He went from baking 2,000 loaves a day to 400, with the same 25-person staff to support.

Yet by the beginning of May, thanks to an increase in retail sales and a new home delivery option, the bakery was back up to 2,000 loaves and he hasn’t had to lay anyone off.

Both owners noted keeping their operations going was more important for the moment than returning their revenue to previous levels.

 ?? CHANG W. LEE / THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Mike Geller, owner of Mike’s Organic Delivery, prepares to open his market for the day in Stamford, Conn. Volume is up for both deliveries and the market, even though it now skews 70% to deliveries where it had been equal before.
CHANG W. LEE / THE NEW YORK TIMES Mike Geller, owner of Mike’s Organic Delivery, prepares to open his market for the day in Stamford, Conn. Volume is up for both deliveries and the market, even though it now skews 70% to deliveries where it had been equal before.

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