The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Chicken in chocolate milk sounds strange, tastes great
Combo of chocolate, peppers, dairy is reminiscent of mole.
Ever read a recipe and think to yourself: This could be a delicious discovery, or it could be a disaster?
When I saw Tyler Kord’s Spicy Chocolate Milk-Simmered Chicken in “Food 52 Dynamite Chicken” (Ten Speed Press, 2019), I took one of those cocked-eyebrow pauses.
It is so simple — combine chocolate milk, jalapeños, chili powder and chicken in a skillet and simmer — that I knew it would be easy. I just wondered if there was enough there to create any complexity of flavor.
No one wants a plate of sweet, mushy chicken.
Still, I’m always on the lookout for a fresh approach to chicken. I knew I had to test this recipe to see if it lived up to Kord’s description in the cookbook: “This chicken may just be one of the most interesting and weird-good things you will make from a cookbook.”
I wasn’t worried about the combination of flavors because, as Kord noted: “Chicken and chile and chocolate have a long and beautiful history in the form of mole, from the state of Puebla, Mexico.”
(I know you have had mole, and this is no mole — the complex, celebrated Mexican sauce that is made with traditional techniques and beloved flavors that vary from family to family and region to region.)
The flavor combination sounded promising.
Another thing the dish had going for it: I have marinated and poached chicken in dairy and turned out juicy, flavorful pieces.
So, I made it and I knew it was good even before I tasted it. As soon as my dining partner dug in, I got that little moment of silence — first bite, second bite and then eye contact with little nods of approval. I love that moment. I wait for that moment — whether I’m cooking for two, as I am so often right now — or a table full of friends. Don’t you?
My one caveat is to buy or make good-quality, full-fat chocolate milk for the cup used in the recipe. The better the chocolate, the better the sauce. The bonein, skin-on thighs add richness to the sauce as well, but you could use other pieces.
Kord recommends serving the chicken with sauteed zucchini and
SPICY CHOCOLATE MILK-SIMMERED CHICKEN
“Chicken and chile and chocolate have a long and beautiful history in the form of mole, from the state of Puebla, Mexico,” writes Tyler Kord in his Food 52 book, “Dynamite Chicken,” by way of introducing this super-simple dish in which chicken is poached in chileseasoned chocolate milk. The recipe calls for fresh jalapeños and chile powder. Kord prefers a powder made from ancho chiles, but any will do. The darker the chocolate milk, the richer and darker the sauce will be. Serve it as directed below, with sauteed zucchini and grains, or, as Kord notes,“stuff it in corn tortillas with a spoonful of the braising liquid and Greek yogurt.”
Storage notes: Store chicken, zucchini and grain in separate containers in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
FOR THE CHICKEN
1 cup whole chocolate milk 2 tablespoons chili powder 2 jalapeños, stemmed and
split lengthwise 2 teaspoons kosher salt 4 bone-in, skin-on chicken
thighs (about 1 1/2 pounds) FOR THE ZUCCHINI 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive
oil
2 zucchinis (about 1 pound
total), sliced 1/2-inch thick a grain, such as quinoa. Those two mild sides balance the rich, rich sauce. I served it with farro, and that was terrific. It could be good with boiled potatoes or with
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 2 garlic cloves, minced Cooked grain, such as faro,
quinoa or rice, for serving Cilantro, for garnish
(optional)
In a saucepan, stir together the chocolate milk, chili powder, jalapeños and 2 teaspoons of the salt until combined. Add the chicken thighs, bone side down. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer until the chicken is tender, for 35 to 40 minutes.
While the chicken is cooking, in a large saute pan over high heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the zucchini and the 1/2 teaspoon of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the zucchini begins to caramelize and soften but does not turn to mush, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Remove from the heat and keep warm until ready to serve.
Serve the chicken and zucchini warm over cooked grains, garnished with cilantro, if using. Serves 4.
Nutrition | Calories: 451; Total Fat: 30 g; Saturated Fat: 9 g; Cholesterol: 169 mg; Sodium: 1245 mg; Carbohydrates: 12 g; Dietary Fiber: 3 g; Sugars: 6 g; Protein: 34 g. (Recipe adapted from “Food52 Dynamite Chicken: 60 Never-Boring Recipes for Your Favorite Bird” by Tyler Ford. Ten Speed Press, 2019.) long-grain rice as well.
If you have chocolate chicken left over, Kord recommends stuffing some in a corn tortilla or using the chicken to fill out a savory pie.
What’s new: frozen items, including waffles and pot pies, that can be reheated
Alcohol: no
What I ordered: beef empanada, mushroom pot pie, barbecue jackfruit sandwich, cheese pizza, slice of chocolate cake roll with lucuma cream, golden milk. The empanada’s flaky crust held a generous, meaty filling. The vegan pizza offered a crisp, thin crust and cheese; you can choose your toppings. I opted for mushrooms, red peppers and olives. Order the barbecue jackfruit sandwich just to taste the possibilities of this tropical fruit. The pot pie was amply filled, but the filling was a bit wet. Everything traveled well. I enjoyed the golden milk on the drive home; this antiinflammatory warm beverage is made from almond milk, coconut oil, fresh ginger, turmeric, black pepper, cinnamon and honey.
Service options: order online; contact-free curbside pickup available; delivery through Uber Eats, DoorDash and Grubhub; outdoor patio open for dining, with restrictions.
Safety protocols: adheres to COVID-19 safety protocols. Any time a patron enters the store, surfaces are recleaned. Patrons are not allowed in the dining room.
Huh! Natural and Real Food.
1066 Alpharetta St., Roswell. 404-528-0444, huhfoodsroswell. smartonlineorder.com