The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Go-to summer rosé has landed, and costs just $14
We have four rosés this week to drink on increasingly hot and humid days. We start with an unusual pink wine from France’s Loire Valley, based on a rare grape called grolleau noir. Next, we go to two classic rosés from the south of France in eye-catching bottles: one is a traditional curved shape, the other looks like the winery let the marketing team go wild after a bacchanal. Then we visit California for an exuberant, full-throttle rosé that has wowed me year after year. We conclude with an example of the unicorn of wines: a delicious but affordable California pinot noir.
Domaine des Herbauges Eléon’Or Rosé 2019: three stars; Loire Valley, France, $17 (great value)
This wine is more of a “gris” style, in that it isn’t merely pale; it’s almost invisible. The base of the blend is grolleau noir, an obscure Loire grape that may have you crinkling your nose and moving on to the next bottle. Don’t. This is lovely rosé, a liquid bouquet of flowers with racy acidity that sneaks up and surprises on the finish rather than greeting you at the start. Alcohol by volume: 12%.
Puech-Haut Argali 2019: three stars; Pays d’Oc, France, $21
Here’s an extremely pale rosé, barely pink, and you would hardly notice the color through the frosted glass bottle with the flat front presumably meant for stacking. This is tart, refreshing and racy, with flavors of cranberry and raspberry, a squirt of lemon juice and a hint of mint. ABV: 14.1%.
Alexander Valley Vineyards Dry Rosé of Sangiovese 2019: twoand-a-half stars; Sonoma County, Calif., $14 (great value)
This is a yearly favorite of mine, for its deep pink color, racy acidity and vibrant strawberry and cherry fruit. This vintage is hitting its stride right about now but should continue to improve over the next several months. It is gulpable but does much better with food, such as lighter dishes from the grill or salami (while you wait for that grill to heat up). Another virtue: There’s a lot of it around. Sustainable. ABV: 13.09%. (At least, I think that’s what it says - the print is way too small for these tired eyes to read easily.)
Château Beaulieu Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence 2019: two-anda-half stars;Provence, France, $19
This is a lovely rosé from the heart of Provence, with aromas and flavors of strawberries and honeydew melon, accented with a whiff of wild herbs. ABV: 13%.
Sean Minor Pinot Noir 2018: two stars; Sonoma Coast, $20
Attractively priced pinot noir from California that actually tastes like pinot noir is rare, but Sean Minor delivers with this juicy wine. It offers flavors of strawberry and plum, with some wild herbs and wood spice. ABV: 13.5%.
Ratings: 3 stars: Exceptional; 2 stars: Excellent; 1 star: Very good. Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.