Beets to brighten your week

If you need a respite from the heaviness of the world, allow me to recommend borscht. Audaciously fuchsia in color, this chilled beet soup will brighten your day with betalain pigments. It’s also delicious, filling, inexpensive and nutritious. I’ve been on a borscht binge since bunches of beets showed up in my CSA box. Convinced that beets taste like dirt? Never when you turn them into tangy summery goodness.

Start by donning an apron and gloves. (The only bummer about beets is that the juice aggressively stains.) Scrub off any dirt and cut away the greens and roots. Place the beets in a covered baking dish with splashes of oil and water, then roast at high heat until they are soft. If you’d prefer not to heat up your kitchen, you can easily roast them on an outdoor grill. Place the beets, oil and water in a tightly sealed foil packet over indirect heat and follow the rest of the recipe as written. (Pro tip: Cook a bunch of beets whenever you fire up the grill, and you’ll always have these versatile veggies on hand.) Once the fork-tender beets cool, cradle them in handfuls of paper towels and use the towels to wipe away the skins.

Borscht is happy to work with whatever liquid you have on hand. Chicken broth adds subtle savory notes, and a boost of protein to boot. When cooler months return, try beef broth borscht, made with hearty root vegetables and leftover braised rib meat. But right now, while the temperature trudges toward steamy, I prefer a lighter mix of vegetable broth and water.

Instead of using flour or cornstarch, traditional borscht is thickened with sour cream. I welcome the tartness, but the calories? Not so much. Instead, I make an indiscernible swap with fat-free plain Greek yogurt. Gently whisk the proteinpacked yogurt into the broth, then add the diced beets, and your favorite summer vegetables like cucumber, red or orange bell peppers, and red onions. Generous amounts of dill are vital for the success of your borscht, as is a good amount of acid. I love vinegar like I could marry it; 2 tablespoons of Champagne vinegar flavor my borscht. If you prefer your lips not to pucker, try a drizzle of fresh lemon juice instead.

Borscht tastes better the second and third day, so give yourself the gift of time by allowing the flavors to blend overnight in the refrigerator. Then garnish with some chopped hard-boiled eggs (more protein!) and let the soup brighten your day.