SMASHED CUCUMBER SALAD

2 pounds thin-skinned cucumbers

(such as English or Persian) 1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon sugar

2 cloves garlic, crushed to a near-paste 2 tablespoons rice vinegar or black vinegar 2 teaspoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons sesame oil

2 teaspoons red pepper flakes

1 carrot, peeled and shredded (optional) 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped

(optional)

Chile oil (optional)

If the cucumbers are not sold wrapped in plastic, wrap them in plastic or place them in a zip-top bag. Place the cucumbers on a cutting board and pound them using a meat tenderizer, rubber mallet, rolling pin, the side of a jar of canned food or other object until the skin breaks open and the cucumbers are flattened. Do not oversmash. Remove and discard the plastic.

Trim and discard the ends of the cucumbers. Cut the cucumbers crosswise in half, then cut each half lengthwise. (If not using seedless cucumbers, cut off and discard the seeds, if desired.) Slice the halves lengthwise into spears, then rough-chop into 1- to 1½-inch bite-size pieces. Transfer to a colander placed over a bowl.

Sprinkle the salt and sugar over the cucumbers, tossing well to combine. Refrigerate the cucumbers, still in the colander, with the bowl underneath to catch juices, for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the dressing: Combine the crushed garlic, rice vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil and red pepper flakes in a bowl. Whisk well.

Remove the cucumbers from the refrigerator. Discard the liquid from the bowl. Wipe out the bowl and add the cucumbers. Add the shredded carrot, if using. Add the dressing and toss to coat. Add the toasted sesame seeds and toss again. Garnish with the cilantro, if desired. Taste and adjust seasonings as necessary. If desired, finish with a drizzle of chile oil.

Serves four.

Per serving: