The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Emphasis on safety brings customers back to bistro

Chef of Bread & Butterfly finds silver lining in pandemic.

- ByBobTowns­end

In June, 2018, Cakes & Ale owners Billy and Kristin Allin announced that their long- running and much loved Decatur restaurant was closing.

At the time, the Allins, whohave two children, said they needed to take a break for “some much needed time together as a family.”

Fans found consolatio­n at Bread & Butterfly, the couple’s wine bar and cafe- bistro, which opened in Inman Park in 2015, along with nearby Proof Bakeshop.

Both places are still operating, albeit with more limited hours and offerings. By necessity, Billy Allin, who collected multiple James Beard nomination­s and “best of” awards at Cakes & Ale, is the chef.

But, working 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Wednesdays- Sundays has been a blessing, Allin said recently.

“Don’t get me wrong, the pandemic sucks,” he said, "but to be able to spend some more time together as a regular family has been great. Whenwe closed Cakes & Ale, my youngest son, Van, said something that broke my heart, but elated me at the same time. It was like, ‘ Dad it’s been really great to get to know you better.’”

Currently, Bread & Butterfly seats customers either in the sunroom, with all the doors open, or on the patio. And, there are strict rules requiring social distancing and masks, to ensure the safety of both employees and guests.

“We’ve been building every week, and the trend line is going up," Allin said. “I think that’s owing to the fact that we really are a lot stricter with safety measures and protocols than most restaurant­s. I think what’s happening is, people who do respect that, and want that piece of mind, are coming back. We’re seeing a lot of return guests, especially on weekdays.”

The smaller menu features some favorites from the past, and a few new things, Allin said.

In the morning, it’s breakfast and brunch items only. Later in the day, the full menu is available, with the acclaimed Burger Americain and plat du jour specials, including fish dishes.

“After 11: 30, we’re kind of like a Waffle House,” Allin joked. “You can get whatever youwant, whether it’s breakfast, lunch or

brunch. I think it’s a really fairly priced menu. ... We try to have fun, and make it an experience that takes some of the weight of theworld off your shoulders.”

Like Bread & Butterfly, Proof Bakeshop is open Wednesdays- Sundays, with strict safety protocols. Coffee, baked goods and grab andgo sandwiches are takeout only. Proof also has a regular presence at local farmers markets, including Freedom Farmers Market on Saturday mornings.

Looking back over the past sevenmonth­s, Allin said he’s been able to ponder the future, and his priorities.

“It’s allowed me to think about these businesses in a different way, and really take a step back and ask how do want to run them, and how do Iwant to run my life,” he said. “In that way, the pandemic has been really, really good for me. That’s the silver lining.”

 ?? BOB TOWNSEND/ FOR THE AJC ?? Tuna niçoise salad, with tomatoes, beans and zucchini, isamong the takeout offerings at Bread& Butterfly.
BOB TOWNSEND/ FOR THE AJC Tuna niçoise salad, with tomatoes, beans and zucchini, isamong the takeout offerings at Bread& Butterfly.

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