The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Dish Dive keeps it quirky

Offbeat Kirkwood spot known for its comfort food.

- ByBobTowns­end

Purposeful­ly minimalist and perenniall­y appreciate­d by dining critics for its bang- for- thebuck BYOB approach, Dish Dive in Kirkwood remains one of the quirkiest comfort food spots in Atlanta.

Jeff Myers, the “D J restaurate­ur” and co- founder of Top Flr and the Sound Table, opened his vision for a neighborho­od restaurant in late 2014, in a tiny cottage space on CollegeAve­nue, next door to an old- school community barbershop.

Nearly six years on, it’s continued to serve a greatest hits of menu items thatmight be called generous small plates. There’s always been a dedication to seasonal fruit and vegetables, including the signature Dive Salad. But meat and cheese appear in many guises, too.

Crispy pork belly is accompanie­d by creamy grits andwedges of deep- fried French toast dotted with berries. A grilled hunk of hanger steak comes with green beans, smashed potatoes, and pickled or confit vegetables. Mac of Cheese is a rich, adult version of the kid’s favorite, baked with sharp cheddar, smoked Gouda, and herbed crumb topping.

While Dish Dive has been knownfor its pleasant front porch and patio seating, those perches have proved even morewelcom­ing during the pandemic. Right now, though, the tight dining roomretain­s only one table, and it sometimes becomes a station for staging takeout orders.

Myers said Dish Dive has managed to survive for nearly six years, largely through word- ofmouth, and repeat customers who understand and embrace its offbeat style.

“Theambianc­e has alwaysbeen a big part of what we do,” he

said. “We used to have a dining room that fit 16- 24 people. Itwas sort of NewYorksty­le. Everyone was on top of each other, and that was a lot of fun.

“Obviously, we’re not in that world anymore, but people have still chosen to get food to go. We’ve had such great neighborho­od support through the years, and the last few months, they’ve really been good to us, and kept us busy.”

The biggest changes cameinMarc­h, whenMyers lost most of his employees. Since then, he’s operated with a minimal staff that includes his wife, K. C. Myers.

And nightly, he’s the one cooking on the line.

“I just couldn’t find anyonewho was passionate in the kitchen,” he explained. “Two years ago, I decided it was time for me to get in the kitchen and really start exploring the one side of the restaurant that I hadn’t explored up to then. I found that’s my favorite place to be. I absolutely love cooking now.”

Like everyone, Myers is anxiously anticipati­ng what comes next for the restaurant business.

“I see us approachin­g another transition, and having to adapt, again,” he said. “I’m always conscious about price point. I try to keep my prices as low as possible. But Dish Dive was created to have a low overhead.

“In that regard, Dish Dive is doing OK. The experiment that I created isworking, because it’s still sustainabl­e. People still want to eat. That’s a good thing. Andwe’re still having fun.”

 ?? BOB TOWNSEND/ FOR THE AJC ?? Hanger Steakwith green beans, smashed potatoes and pickled onions.
BOB TOWNSEND/ FOR THE AJC Hanger Steakwith green beans, smashed potatoes and pickled onions.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States