The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Savory, silky $ 14 pinot noir is worth stocking up on
The holidays are a good reason to drink bubbly - here are two, a champagne and a franciacorta from Italy, to put on your celebratory menu. We also have an outstanding, inexpensive pinot noir from France, an intriguingly delicious garnacha from Spain, and a rosso from Abruzzo in Italy made from organic grapes without added sulfites.
Champagne Gimonnet Gonet L’accord Pinot Noir Chardonnay: three stars; Les Mesnil sur Oger, Champagne, France. $ 47
This agreeable champers is on the delicate side, with peach, apple and apricot flavors and a soft bubbly texture. Don’t look for toasty, brioche notes; this is a wine of filigree and finesse. Slot this beauty in for mood- setting introductory toasts, aperitifs or a lighter first course. Alcohol by volume: 12%.
La Montina Extra Brut: t hree st ars; Franciacorta, Italy, $ 30
Franciacorta DOC is Italy’s most famous region for sparkling wine made in what is usually called the champagne method, with the bubbles coming from a second fermentation after the wine is bottled. ( The Trento DOC is making a bid for recognition with its excellent bubblies.) This lovely extra brut from La Montina is a blend of chardonnay with a small percentage of pinot nero. The color is light straw, the bead of bubbles, or “perlage,” is steady and delicate.
The wine smells of citrus blossoms and summer orchard fruit. It is ideal before dinner as an ice breaker, or with raw oysters or fritto misto. New to the market, it should enjoy better availability in the weeks and months to come. ABV: 12%.
Dom. Brunet Pinot Noir 2019: three stars; Pays d’oc, France, $ 14 ( great value)
Wow - this delicious pinot noir from Languedoc, in southern France, resembles a goodquality Bourgogne rouge, or “basi c burgundy,” which would typically cost twice the price. Savory dark cherry, with some forest floor character of dried leaves, and a silky texture make this a wine to stock up on. ABV: 13%.
La Botera Vila- Closa Garnatxa Negra 2018: two and a half stars; Terra Alta, Spain, $ 15 ( great value)
This is not your typical Spanish garnacha. Rather than inky and fruit- forward, this delightful wine has dreams of being a pinot noir when it grows up. The color is translucent ruby, the aromas lifted with violets and roses, the flavors light and herbal. Save some for an after- dinner conversation, or maybe just some alone time. ABV: 14.2%.
Cascina del Colle Bio Zero Rosso 2019: two and a half stars; Abruzzo, Italy, $ 14 ( great value)
The label is simple, but it gets the marketing across, in all- caps like a presidential t weet: “WITHOUT ADDED SULFITES” and “ORGANIC WINE.” This is the kind of fresh glou glou natural wine fans pine for - grapey and with an energy that tickles the palate. Chill slightly, and toss it back with a spicy pizza. ABV: 13.5%.
Ratings: 3 stars: Exceptional; 2 stars: Excellent; 1 star: Very good. Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher. com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.