LEMONY BUCATINI WITH CAULIFLOWER AND BACON

Bucatini is lovely for this simple recipe, but if you cannot find it, just use your favorite pasta. Do not use packaged Parmesan here; grate it fresh and it will melt more easily, creating a light coating for the pasta. To save time, put the pasta water on to boil first, so it can cook while you prep the vegetables.

Storage Notes: Leftovers can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Save a bit of reserved pasta water and drizzle it over the pasta when reheating in a skillet to restore a touch of creaminess.

8 ounces bucatini pasta Kosher salt (optional) 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for pasta

4 strips thick-cut bacon,

cut into 1-inch pieces 1 small white or yellow onion (about 5 ounces), diced

1 small head cauliflower (2 pounds), cut into bite-size florets 1 lemon

1/4 cup panko

breadcrumbs

1/2 cup (about 2 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, plus more to taste 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, plus more for serving

In a large pot over medium-high heat, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Add salt, if desired. Cook the pasta in the boiling water according to package directions, until al dente.

While the pasta is boiling, prepare a towel-lined plate and place it near the stove. In a large, lidded skillet, at least 12 inches wide, over medium heat, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the bacon and cook until crispy, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Transfer the bacon to the prepared plate. Transfer all but about 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat to a bowl and set aside.

When the pasta is cooked, reserve 1 cup of the cooking water and drain. Drizzle the drained pasta with 1 to 2 teaspoons of olive oil and, using tongs or a wooden spoon, toss and coat the pasta with the oil.

Add the onion and cauliflower to the large skillet. Mix to coat with bacon fat, reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for about 10 minutes. Increase the heat to medium, uncover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cauliflower is fork-tender with a few dark spots, 8 to 10 minutes. The food should be sizzling, but use care that the onions do not burn.

While the cauliflower is cooking, zest and juice the lemon.

In a small skillet over medium heat, add the reserved bacon fat and heat until shimmering. Add the breadcrumbs, crumbled bacon and lemon zest and cook, stirring, until the breadcrumbs turn just a shade darker, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Once the cauliflower is cooked, add the lemon juice to the skillet and scrape up any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Add the cooked pasta and 1/2 cup of the reserved pasta water, again scraping up any stuck bits. Stir in the cheese and crushed red pepper flakes, and toss and stir the pasta until lightly coated and the vegetables are distributed. Add more pasta water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if the mixture is too dry.

Serve the pasta familystyle in a large, shallow bowl or platter, topped with the breadcrumb mixture as well as torn parsley leaves and grated Parmesan, if using. Makes 2 to 4 servings.

NOTE: If you prefer a vegetarian version, substitute caramelized onions for the bacon and diced onion. In a large skillet over medium-low heat, add 3 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil, 2 thinly sliced white onions and a large pinch of salt. Stir until the onions are coated with oil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and golden brown, 45 to 55 minutes. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Per serving (based on 4 servings): Calories: 543; Total Fat: 20 g; Saturated Fat: 7 g; Cholesterol: 32 mg; Sodium: 532 mg; Carbohydrates: 66 g; Dietary Fiber: 8 g; Sugar: 11 g; Protein: 20 g.

Adapted from “Simple Beautiful Food” by Amanda Frederickson (Ten Speed Press, 2020).