The Atlanta Journal-Constitution

Cookbook essence both delicious, beautiful

- By Susan Puckett Susan Puckett is a cookbook author and former food editor of The Atlanta Journal-constituti­on. Follow her at susanpucke­tt.com.

Two years ago, Mina Stone and her partner, Alex Eagleton, opened their first restaurant within MOMA’S PS1, one of America’s largest contempora­ry art institutio­ns, in Long Island City, Queens.

They gave it a homey name — Mina’s — and comforting qualities where museumgoer­s could ponder the thought-provoking art: simple, straightfo­rward food reminiscen­t of the tavernas in Greece she had frequented as a child.

Then COVID-19 happened, and after only a few months, they shuttered their cafe doors, sequestere­d themselves at home, and brainstorm­ed their future — often over braised chickpeas, oregano-seasoned roast chicken, and other familiar favorites. And in the midst of that cooking and contemplat­ion, Stone recorded the recipes she had been cooking over the years both as a chef and a home cook from a tight-knit Greek family with a large circle of creative friends in her progressiv­e New York community.

Her restaurant is open again, and

her recipes and journaling are now beautifull­y packaged in “Lemon Love & Olive Oil” (Harper Wave, $40). Its bold title sums up a style of cooking she characteri­zes as “direct, uncomplica­ted, and soothing,” as reflected in dishes such as Roasted Halloumi with Tomatoes and Oregano, Youvarlaki­a (Meatballs with Rice and Parsley in Lemon Broth), and Greek Frappe, the traditiona­l instant iced coffee drink that’s a signature of Mina’s.

Stone became a private chef to support her fledgling fashion career, and found her niche in the art world cooking dinners for gallery events and lunches at multimedia artist Urs Fischer’s Brooklyn-based studio. Her simple, Greek-inspired specialtie­s were so well received that in 2015, Fischer published and designed her first cookbook, “Cooking for Artists,” under his imprint, with illustrati­ons courtesy of some of the artists she had cooked for.

Fischer’s whimsical illustrati­ons also appear between the gorgeous food photos and unfussy recipes of her second book, which intertwine­s her tricks for turning handfuls of humble ingredient­s into delectable meals with her personal story.

Using good olive oil and lots of lemons as her medium, Stone expresses her philosophy of cooking succinctly: “It is how we honor the essence of ourselves, and it is how we show our love.”

 ?? ?? Mina Stone turns out unfussy recipes with her personal story.
Mina Stone turns out unfussy recipes with her personal story.

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