DEVILED CRAB RIGATONI

The splurge on lump crabmeat to make this seriously upgraded riff on tuna noodle casserole is worth every penny. And the freezer-to-oven instructions from authors Ashley Christensen and Kaitlyn Goalen in their “It’s Always Freezer Season: How to Freeze Like a Chef With 100 Make-ahead Recipes” (Ten Speed Press, $30) work like a charm. If quality crab is out of reach, chopped shrimp can be used instead.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter plus more for greasing

the dish

Kosher salt

8 ounces rigatoni

¼ cup olive oil

4 leeks, white part only, cleaned and thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

½ cup sweet sherry

2 cups heavy cream

4 large eggs, lightly beaten

¼ cup Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Freshly ground black pepper

8 ounces lump crabmeat, picked over for shell

fragments

Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Butter an 8-by-11-inch baking dish. Fill a large pot with water and salt it generously (it should taste salty like the ocean). Bring to a boil over high heat, add the rigatoni, and cook 11 ½ minutes, just shy of al dente. Drain well and let cool slightly.

In a large skillet over medium heat, warm the oil and 3 tablespoons butter. When the butter melts, add the leeks and cook, stirring frequently, for 10 to 12 minutes, until softened and translucent. Add the garlic, season with 1 teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 to 5 minutes, until the garlic has softened. Add the sherry and reduce, stirring often, for about 5 minutes, until most of the liquid has evaporated. Let cool.

In a large bowl, whisk together the cream, eggs, Dijon, Worcestershire sauce and cayenne. Add 2 to 3 teaspoons black pepper, 2 teaspoons salt, the crabmeat, leeks and rigatoni. Stir to coat and distribute everything evenly. Pour into the prepared dish.

To freeze the assembled dish: Wrap the baking dish in 2 layers of plastic wrap, label and date, and freeze for up to 3 months.

To bake from frozen: Unwrap the baking dish and cover with foil. Place in a cold oven and set the oven to 350 degrees. Bake for 1 hour, then remove the foil. Bake for another 15 to 20 minutes, until the surface is browned in spots and the custard is set.

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After removing from the oven, let rest for 5 minutes. Serve onto plates and sprinkle with parsley.

Serves 8.

Per serving: