The Bakersfield Californian

‘Party Down’: Still unprofessi­onal, still a good time

- BY LILI LOOFBOUROW

Most sitcom revivals stink.

Even when they include the exact same cast (or maybe because they include the exact same cast), there’s a whiff of embarrassi­ng fanfic about them. They repeat old formulas when they aren’t overexplai­ning where everyone’s been, require actors to take on the faintly humiliatin­g project of reinhabiti­ng their younger selves and invite fans to pretend the circumstan­ces reuniting the gang aren’t spectacula­rly contrived.

The whole enterprise tends to put viewers and actors alike in a mode that a little more reverent than funny. It’s supposed to be a party, with everyone gathering to re-create a fond moment, and yet the undertakin­g is fundamenta­lly uncool in the way that re-throwing your own quinceañer­a would be, and so freighted by the shadow of past success that a haunting question arises: Are we having fun yet?

For the third season of Starz’s “Party Down,” which premiered Feb. 24, the answer — despite a 13-year gap — is yes. Of the five episodes made available to critics (there are six total), all of the foregoing is true: The pretexts for getting everyone in the same place are slim. There are repeated jokes aplenty (Martin Starr’s Roman on drugs! Ken Marino’s Ron Donald gets injured!) and even whole recycled scenarios. But the cult comedy about a ragtag group of Los Angeles caterers pursuing (or recovering from) their showbiz dreams doesn’t feel dated. Disappoint­ment turns out

to be a timeless premise.

And it still works. Lizzy Caplan’s absence smarts (she was busy with another project), but the show was always casual about swapping people out, and the new additions are solid. Zoë Chao is particular­ly good as Lucy, a chef who regards food as high art and tries to make the hors d’oeuvres more philosophi­cally challengin­g than delicious. (One of her creations prompts Ron to ask “Is it food?” “Exactly!” Lucy replies.) She more than holds her own opposite guest star Nick Offerman in a memorable scene that, despite featuring no regular cast members, feels like the same ol’ “Party Down,” not a tribute or reenactmen­t.

That might be at least in part because the scrappy comedy doesn’t have any glory days to relive. Created by Paul Rudd, John Enbom, Rob Thomas

and Dan Etheridge, “Party Down” failed to attract an audience despite being packed with talents that have since become household names, including Adam Scott as Henry, a failed actor whose biggest success was a commercial, Lizzy Caplan as Casey, an acerbic comedian still trying to make it (and Henry’s love interest), and Jane Lynch as Constance, a daffy raconteur whose total lack of success in Hollywood has in no way dampened her spirits or hopes. They formed part of a loose ensemble of caterers who don’t care, even a little bit, about the job. They eat the guests’ food, snoop, steal drugs. The exception is their boss, Marino’s desperatel­y entreprene­urial Ron Donald, whose slavish deference to his customers backfires as predictabl­y as his efforts to rein in his employees.

Despite a small and dedicated cult following while it was on the air, ratings were abysmal. The comedy developed a much bigger fan base after it was canceled, when streaming services gave it a second life. That the actors never got to experience the show’s success as an ensemble means the pleasure they take in it now feels more fresh than nostalgic.

But the main reason “Party Down” transcends the creaky machinery typical of revivals is that it always simultaneo­usly performed and skewered the thirsty pathos and weird contrivanc­es that accompany engineered fun.

The show took a dim but affectiona­te view of human effort: Everyone hosting an event in this world worked hard to profession­ally produce a good time, and it never, ever went well. The house-proud suburban couples were as bad at it as the campus conservati­ves and the guy trying to throw an orgy. No one was having fun at a “Party Down” fete (except for a couple of employees) because fun in the series is formal work: strained and artificial and doomed.

This reproduced, in microcosm and with bad canapes, the show’s meta-critique of Hollywood as just a bigger fun factory where the final product sucks and everyone (except for Steve Guttenberg) is unhappy and unfulfille­d. But while the caterers observed that giant machine longingly from the margins, “Party Down” had the good sense to never take failure or aspiration too seriously. Its sweetness resided in how gamely the crew stepped up when guests (or hosts) broke through the party’s scaffoldin­g to get real: grieve personal failures, confess disappoint­ments, strive for connection.

The jokes were good, but its skepticism toward the business of pleasure was what made “Party Down” great.

The show’s third season doesn’t gloss over the lameness of reunions and revivals. The most moving moment features two characters bonding over the problems a prom do-over couldn’t fix. Maybe that’s what makes this particular revival work: the plot contortion­s don’t make much sense, but the show isn’t really trying to convince you that they do. That lack of effort is very “Party Down.”

So are the difference­s: Constance, for instance, resented Lydia (Megan Mullally) in their one joint appearance in the original show because Lydia “replaced” her (a joke about Mullally joining the cast when Lynch left), but they get along famously now as the peppiest ex-Party Down-ers. Ryan Hansen’s Kyle gets less to do than he should because Roman’s rivalry with him — a structurin­g element of the original series — has gone slack. Roman’s a small-time YouTuber now, so his new target is co-worker Sackson (Tyrel Jackson Williams), a young TikToker type who gives the show some up-andcomer energy. Through Sackson we learn, in the kind of incidental update the series needed, that Roman’s fans — unbeknowns­t to him — are incels and Gamergater­s.

The most interestin­g move, however, was softening Henry. If the 2009 Henry defined the show’s tone — still a little bit cool and above it all despite giving up on his dream, trapped by his inability to say what he wants — the Season 3 version has lost a lot of that armor. Henry’s budding (and improbable) relationsh­ip with a studio executive played by Jennifer Garner is strangely sweet. It has none of the barbed complexity that characteri­zed his dynamic with Casey. That fits: This guy, at this stage of life, facing yet another crushing disappoint­ment, would chase happiness hard. He’s goofy, wry, even playful.

Thirteen years later, Henry might be finally having fun.

 ?? COLLEEN HAYES / STARZ ?? From left, Ryan Hansen, Zoe Chao, Martin Starr, Adam Scott and Tyrel Jackson Williams in Season 3 of Starz’s “Party Down.”
COLLEEN HAYES / STARZ From left, Ryan Hansen, Zoe Chao, Martin Starr, Adam Scott and Tyrel Jackson Williams in Season 3 of Starz’s “Party Down.”

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